Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by coco69

wheres the best place to buy the plastic bodies ones that require full assembly, e.g. fujimi and tamiya kit styles??

most of mine were given to me, but i always get them from games/model stores and they cost over 40 bucks each.  is there a way to order them direct from japan?  i'd love it if i could get them for around 15-20 bucks each.

coco69, http://www.hlj.com is your friend!!! They are in japan (but ship worldwide and the website is all in english) and carry basically all the fujimi and tamiya models (as opposed to australai where there is maybe 10 fujimi models brought in by the distributor). They also carry all the dress up bits like wheels and wings, mufflers etc that fujimi/aoshima make.

My GTS-R kit was 1000yen, or $13!!! postage was about the same, so all up, including the wheels I bought it came to $33.80, and once my kit came into stock (it was out of production when I ordered) it took 9 DAYS to get here.

I recommend them to everyone, and also recommend staying out of bloodsucking aussie hobby shops for everything bar paint/glue/supplies/revell kits. The GTS-R was going to be $50+ from sherriffs , and unavailable elsewhere......

its just stoopid to buy fujimi kits here.

cheers,

floody

I buy all my stuff from www.hlj.com I reccomend them to anyone who's after stuff. The 2-3week shipping wait is well worth the savings, plus they've got better quality kits. Check out Aoshima kits they're alot better than Fujimi kits.

I had an awesome S15 on order but it was limited run and they are out of production now :)

I changed my order to a HKS tuned WRX now, should be interesting. I'll add it to my huge pile of "kits to build" hehe

I have a Mini-Z silver r34, Its actually a fairly high quality scale body for a little RC car. Well it used to be good, a fair bit of its body is broken/missing now. Also a few 1/10 RC skyline bodys, an r34 and the R33 LM car, both of wich arent to good for my nitro car as they make the thing want to take off but look good flying around on an electric RC car. I havent got any skyline scale models as such yet but maybe in the future. Whats the best way to paint a scale model kit? Is it possible to get a decent finish with a brush? Havent got a little spray gun.

Originally posted by T0nyGTSt

We need some pics of that R33 GTS Ryan :P

Mine are Ebbro 1:43 die cast. Retail is about $75 each with the rare ones (like that purple GT-R 34) running much more.

1:43 is a good size for sticking ontop of your monitor.

T.

I'll get some pics sometime this week when I go get the camera off my dad.

I painted it today, but, I ran out of paint and need to buy another can to finish it off. I'll buy some more paint tommorow see how we go. So far so good. I modified the front bar some more too it looks alright. I've decided I'll most likely add 19inch Work Equip 5's to it also now. Pics sometime this week :(

Guys - keep an eye out for www.importplaza.com.au - we will be importing all sorts of Diecast models and selling them from the site (which should be live during the week.)

and Ryan, i notice you are posting here again?? i thought you'd had it with SAU and went your own way?

i can't seem to find HLJ's full listing of all fujimi models?

only seems there are a few selected types... can someone show me to the link where its got the full listing of models? coz im gonna go nuts and buy like 10 at once if they carry all different models.

e.g. gts and gtr of each skyline series.

coco use the menu on the side of the main page where it says Browse by Company, go to Fujimi. Then select passenger cars, there's plenty of cars in there. Or just use the search feature for Skyline or whatever..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...