Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

I had my stagea on dyno yesterday, i put on at bigger turbo, a T70, and adjusted til fuel to 1,4 bar.

On the dyno the boost was only at 1,33 bars, but it still made 485,5 rwhp at 7200 rpm, and 484 nm at 5800 rpm.

As you can see on the attached fil of effect, there is a lot more power in this turbo, and it have the same nm all the ways, in this weekend, i will try more then 1,6 bar.

Link to video:

http://www.jorn-petersen.dk/e107/e107_files/Video/00187.wmv

And a picture of a warm turbo, and the dyno result.

post-46420-1212559297_thumb.jpg

post-46420-1212559452_thumb.jpg

Edited by Stagea Denmark
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222301-danish-stagea-on-dyno-again/
Share on other sites

Hi guys.

I had my stagea on dyno yesterday, i put on at bigger turbo, a T70, and adjusted til fuel to 1,4 bar.

On the dyno the boost was only at 1,33 bars, but it still made 485,5 rwhp at 7200 rpm, and 484 nm at 5800 rpm.

As you can see on the attached fil of effect, there is a lot more power in this turbo, and it have the same nm all the ways, in this weekend, i will try more then 1,6 bar.

Link to video:

http://www.jorn-petersen.dk/e107/e107_files/Video/00187.wmv

And a picture of a warm turbo, and the dyno result.

It appears that this is turning in to one evil car...........it will be good to see a 1/4 mile time when you can...

doesnt really get on the boil till over 5500 approx rpm .. is the car mostly for street use?

Thanks.

This car is only for street use, and some fun.

I this weekend, we have Danish Nationals, and i will go on the drag-strip, and smoke some tires with a friend, he have a 650 hp Supra, we will together smoke the track, all 402 meters, to warm up the spectators, my brother will record it on video, and i will post it here.

It appears that this is turning in to one evil car...........it will be good to see a 1/4 mile time when you can...

It will happen this weekend, i hope for at low 12, and with a boost at 1,6 bar, that will be arround 550 rwhp.

Remember, nothing insite the engine is changed, standard cams, bolts, gaskets, this engine is only a test, because there is a lot off smartguys in Denmark, telling me, i can't make more then 450 hp out of a standard RB25DET engine, i will show them. :P

Thanks m8, anyone know, how much i can make out of a standard RB25 engine, before i blow.!!

There is an 18 page thread in the DIY section (max power from RB25DET) where someone went through this exercise. The answer is the sky's the limit as to what you can acheive on the dyno but you are already above what can normally be sustained for any length of time. However as you appear to have the resources to find out for yourself...good on you.

There is an 18 page thread in the DIY section (max power from RB25DET) where someone went through this exercise. The answer is the sky's the limit as to what you can acheive on the dyno but you are already above what can normally be sustained for any length of time. However as you appear to have the resources to find out for yourself...good on you.

Thanks.

Engine blown.

Long story, but was to Danish Nationls this weekend, and my car was in a show-class, smoking tires, 402 m, ect.

Before all runs, i was on the dyno at this event, 1,33 bar, 488 rwhp, at all these runs, i made 1,42 bars boost.

The first 4-5 402m runs, i mad 13,4 - 13,5:

Reaction times between 0.28 and 0.33.

60 foot: 2,6 to 2,75 every time < Bad Launch-control, and street-tires.

At 200m: 147 km/t.

At 402m: 189 km/t.

But at every run, and at approx 370m, i had to shift to 4. gear, and my max. rpm was at this time at 7800 rpm, i changed this to 8500 rpm, and hope i now was able to go all the way in 3. gear, lower the rpm in the launch-control to 3200 rpm, and made another run, i got a better start, and at approx 390m, i was at 8500 rpm, i didn't shift to 4. gear, pedal to the metal, stayed there, and piston number 5 or 6. was dead, a lot of smoke from the engine room, shit happens.

I will add a video or 2 soon.

I put in a new engine in 2 days, still a standard engine, my new goal is 600 rwhp this time, but i will only make 7800 rpm.. :)

A very nice weekend, the winner in street-class, was a EVO 9, 9,51 sec.

Edited by Stagea Denmark
Please tell me someone took video footage of some of that....??

I don't have a video, where my engine goes kaput, but other.

On this video i made a 13,55, and 172 km/h, missed 4. gear, beat a Skyline GTS. (11 MB)

http://www.jorn-petersen.dk/e107/e107_files/Video/00270.wmv

shit be interested in seeing how the block went as when mine blew it cracked big time . mine had 255awk but a bad night and a massive boost spike due to a waste gate line comming addrift . all ended broke 2 ringlands and cracked 2 other pistons as well as the block cracking so sad .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
×
×
  • Create New...