Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah thats a good idea Dohmar, But Oosh im not sure what you meant by your comment.

He's referring to the gearbox gear ratios. The OS Giken kit has a different ratio. I'm not sure whether it revs out easier or not, but I'm suspecting its for drag racers? The OS Giken stuff is one of a couple of rebuild kits. Either that or you buy a brand new OEM box for $3200... or find the bits and pieces you need as components and assemble it as new...

-D

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It's a taller gear, it'd be like taking off from the lights half way between 1st and 2nd gear, more clutch slipping so not good in stop start driving but a more usable gear in low-speed corner on the race track where a road 1st would be way too low.

Shadex you still haven't mentioned what you intend to do with this car, is it a tough streeter, dedicated drag or track weapon?

Id rather just by a complete box -_- The OEM ones come built? But are they any good? O_O

As good as brand new. In fact, I believe they sell the Series 3 R33 box for that same price;

http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=254

Check that shizzl out... Genuine Nissan Gearbox - Nissan Skyline BCNR33 Genuine Nissan Replacement Gearbox - Nissan Skyline R33 GTR (Series 3)

$3200

Which will be fine for a certain range... I think if ur gonna do over 500hp then you *might* be looking for a rebuild kit (I really dont know jack about power levels for boxes or rebuilds, perhaps someone out there does and can let us know when the time would be to consider a rebuild, cause I'd be interested).

I know I'm aiming for 400hp or so and the GTR box will easily cope with that, so I'm not gonna bother with a hardcore rebuild. Maybe if I get a 2nd job pimping and have a spare $100k to lash out on rebuilding a '32 racecar for targa tassie >:(

ahh well i can dream, cant i?

-D

Yea dreamings good lol, But yeah i have seen the brand new box before, i thought you meant a after market stronger box lol.

Oosh, eventually i would like around the 350+ rwkw range, But saying that im not going to go out and do that by the end of the year. But in the next few years i would like to have built a mean street car. Thats the plan anyhow.

Yea dreamings good lol, But yeah i have seen the brand new box before, i thought you meant a after market stronger box lol.

Oosh, eventually i would like around the 350+ rwkw range, But saying that im not going to go out and do that by the end of the year. But in the next few years i would like to have built a mean street car. Thats the plan anyhow.

thats under 500hp, and I know plenty of people who are running that sort of power with stock boxes and theyre not having any problems. If you can get yourself a good 2nd hand GTR box then you'll be laughing. No rebuilt boxes are necessary for that sort of power provided you're not going to abuse it, or race hard..

If you can afford the 33 GTR series 3 box then get that and fit it. Otherwise look out for a good 2nd hand one of those :ermm:

-D

Not sure what you men by that. Do you mean Rebuild box's wont take being raced / abused but GTR ones will? Is that what your getting at?

No.

A rebuilt GTR box will have more strength and better ratios for racing or dragging, depending on how you build it. (As in, if you replace the gear sets and put in stronger bearings/synchros) But if you're going to have a maximum of 500 horsepower then I personally don't think it would be necessary to rebuild a GTR box (for street use), as a stock GTR box will suffice. If you get a GTS4 or GTS-T box I don't know what sort of power levels they can cope with by default. This is why oosh wants to know what exactly you're going to use it for. A gearbox for the street is not the same as a dragging box or a racing box, or a drifting box. Different boxes for different jobs.

-D

No.

A rebuilt GTR box will have more strength and better ratios for racing or dragging, depending on how you build it. (As in, if you replace the gear sets and put in stronger bearings/synchros) But if you're going to have a maximum of 500 horsepower then I personally don't think it would be necessary to rebuild a GTR box (for street use), as a stock GTR box will suffice. If you get a GTS4 or GTS-T box I don't know what sort of power levels they can cope with by default. This is why oosh wants to know what exactly you're going to use it for. A gearbox for the street is not the same as a dragging box or a racing box, or a drifting box. Different boxes for different jobs.

-D

Am I glad I've got a Gehtrag!!!!!!

No.

A rebuilt GTR box will have more strength and better ratios for racing or dragging, depending on how you build it. (As in, if you replace the gear sets and put in stronger bearings/synchros) But if you're going to have a maximum of 500 horsepower then I personally don't think it would be necessary to rebuild a GTR box (for street use), as a stock GTR box will suffice. If you get a GTS4 or GTS-T box I don't know what sort of power levels they can cope with by default. This is why oosh wants to know what exactly you're going to use it for. A gearbox for the street is not the same as a dragging box or a racing box, or a drifting box. Different boxes for different jobs.

-D

I see. Well manly it will be just a street box. But what im getting at is i want it to be out to cope with abit of pressure/stress.

I see. Well manly it will be just a street box. But what im getting at is i want it to be out to cope with abit of pressure/stress.

Thats a hard one. A std GTR box is tough to begin with, but no box is indestructible. It all depends on how you drive it, what sorta power yr engine puts out, whether or not the clutch is going to help or hinder the drivetrain. For my 2c, I'd just get a 2nd hand GTR box in good condition. If it dies, get your old one reconditioned. Sadly, gearboxes are labour intensive and so will never be cheap to get done, but rather $2000 than a $7000 box if you're never going to need that much...

-D

Yea but just cause somethings new doesn't mean that its going to stay strong lol, Id rather spend the extra and have something that im not going to have to replace a year so down the track.

I've gotten 18 years out of my current box. Its the same one that came with the car when it was released. Only now do I have to replace it, and even then I'm just taking the cheapest option instead of replacing the synchros. Seriously, unless you're going to go over 500hp, stick with the stock box. Nothing, even a $7000 rebuilt box, is indestructible.

-D

Stick with stock, but just don't put a stoopid hard clutch in and your gearbox will thank you, think of your clutch like a "fuse".

Remember it's far cheaper and easier to replace a burnt-out clutch than a lunched gearbox.

Stick with stock, but just don't put a stoopid hard clutch in and your gearbox will thank you, think of your clutch like a "fuse".

Remember it's far cheaper and easier to replace a burnt-out clutch than a lunched gearbox.

great analogy :P

1. its Getrag

2. i'm led to believe there is no difference between RB25 gearbox and R33 GTR gearbox

next

lol. you're lead wrong imho. 33 gtr gearbox is an upgraded 32 gtr gbox, meaning it has the same xfer case but stronger input shaftand if its an s3 33 gtr box it'll have tougher synchros. the 25 box is tough but lacks an xfer case (and possibly other stuff, unless theres a rb25 4wd variant? aside from stagea, and even then I doubt they'd be the same as the GTS-4 has different ratios to the GTR so I see no reason why other boxes would be stronger...)...

Caveat - I know sfa about boxes. I could be wrong :)

-D

well shaun at boost worx told me they were basically the same possibly different ratios for some of the gears i dont know

as for

that statement is clearly wrong as R33 cant pull the fuse due to pre-load on the transfer case

33 gtr gearbox is an upgraded 32 gtr gbox, meaning it has the same xfer case but stronger input shaft and if its an s3 33 gtr box it'll have tougher synchros.

you do realise they bolt on and off

the 25 box is tough but lacks an xfer case

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...