Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you want to be sure that your turbo is going to be safe then run 12 if you go above this its not the best thing for the ceramic exhaust wheel as it can finish in your exhaust but i know guys that run 14 and still havent had any probs, i am making 204rwkw at 12 psi and use EBC as it is a much safer way of controling your boost

yeah its pretty well covered in some of the threads mate......i personally have been adviced by some of the guru's of imports that on a stock RB25 turbo dont go past 12 psi....12 psi is the safe boost level....anything above that will reduce the life of the turbo big time.....i have mine on 10psi on a r33 s1 and i reakon that is plenty of boost for me.....

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

you need a bleed valve or electronic boost controller (a bleed valve is a type of manual boost controller).

Unless you have an accurate boost gauge (the factory one is NOT), and some decent mechanical knowledge (which, no offense sounds like you don't), take it to a workshop and get them put in a device for you and set it up.

I've only had my R33 for about 4 months now and am new to forced induction. but how do you increase your boost? do you have to run a boost controller or can you just go to a place like boostworx and get them to put it up for you? thanks :(

Hey mate....i wont go down the road of a bleeder valve...ebc is the way to go but make sure that its all tuned properly

i have an rb25 turbo on my rb20. its happy as a pig in shit at 13psi, i get 199 at the wheels with re-mapped ecu

The RB20 uses a fair whack less air than the rb25. As a result the shaft speed/backpressure/power/airflow etc is all less for the same given boost pressure.

14psi is fine with the rb25 turbo on the rb20.

The rb20det turbo on both the rb20 and rb30 (with 25 head) made ever so slightly more power with the 25 head but with ~4-5psi less boost.

The bottom end makes no difference to peak power as that is governed by the head.

An RB20DET with 14psi should be making similiar power as to an RB25det with ~10psi according to what I've seen with mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...