Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, about 2 months ago i searched for what oils are best for my gear box and diff but had no solid answer, just what guys are using in their own cars.

My car is a r33 series 2 gtst manual, and i need to know asap because auto barn has a 20% sale store wide this weekend so i need to buy it this weekend.

My question is what is the best oil for my gear box and diff, so i can go buy it and save some cash.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/222734-gear-box-and-diff/
Share on other sites

Most swear on red-line Shock proof.

Do a quick search on here.....

I myself run it on my car...both diff and gear box....give it 400k's and you will feel the difference.

Hope i have been of some help.....

SEARCH>>>SEARCH>>>SEARCH>>>>

Cool i was kind of leaning towards redline, except i read something about it not being good for the syncros or something in a r33 gear box.

Well since you have used it, whats your opinoin of your gear box and diff since using it? Obviously its easier to tell the difference with the gear box compared to diff.

Also how many litres did you use in the gear box and how many litres in the diff if you remember, so i know how many litres to buy.

Cheers mate

Edited by WET-25T

As far as my understanding goes, the redline shockproof oil is supposed to be good in old/worn out gearboxes it's kinda like a bandaid while you save the money for the new parts the box needs?

I use the castrol synthetic stuff to suit.

SO many people say redline is no good for syncro boxes and blah blah Here it is people , Im a gearbox biulder of 6 yrs and its f*kING FANTASTIC , in freshly rebiult gtr boxes we use it Even in some diffs , DONT LISTEN to the rubbish out there i swear by this stuff,

SO many people say redline is no good for syncro boxes and blah blah Here it is people , Im a gearbox biulder of 6 yrs and its f*kING FANTASTIC , in freshly rebiult gtr boxes we use it Even in some diffs , DONT LISTEN to the rubbish out there i swear by this stuff,

agreed, i use it in every car that the customers car that can afford it and over 10years i have never had a complaint..... or a damaged box because of the oil selection.

GeeTR even in fresh boxes ive never had an issue.... PPG would not warrant thier boxes without it :)

RodMonsta as far as i know, yes it is every autobarn with the 20% store wide sale but only this weekend.

Thanks to everyone else, based on your replies im going to autobarn tomorrow to buy redline light weight shock proof for my gear box and diff.

Cheers.

Autobarn sell smurf blood? Dang, I had to get it imported from auto1 last time a mate needed some.

GeeTR even in fresh boxes ive never had an issue.... PPG would not warrant thier boxes without it :)

That IS interesting, cheers :D

Edited by GeeTR
Autobarn sell smurf blood? Dang, I had to get it imported from auto1 last time a mate needed some.

That IS interesting, cheers :cheers:

Didn't know autobarn sells it, performancelub.com also has it cheap :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...