Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It really comes down to who is tuning the car. Make sure your tuner is comfortable and very familiar with the ECU.

Personally I like the Autronic. As good as a Motec, but without the huge price tag and 'pay more for more features' bullshit. Autronic has everything available from the get-go.

Will the Microtech work with Nissan sensors, CAS, etc?

It really comes down to who is tuning the car. Make sure your tuner is comfortable and very familiar with the ECU.

Personally I like the Autronic. As good as a Motec, but without the huge price tag and 'pay more for more features' bullshit. Autronic has everything available from the get-go.

Will the Microtech work with Nissan sensors, CAS, etc?

Like I said, 'Plug and play' lol........ just needs a vac/boost line from after the throttle body.

the thing about the individual throttles and the map sensor is that you need a vac line from after each throttle that then goes into one line.......

thats my understanding anyway (at least to get a good stable reading - you could grab it off one, then use a multiplication factor or something, but it never would be as right as a line from after each throttle)

if you havent yet, have a gander at this site

http://v8soarer.com/itb/index.shtml

guy did ITB's for his v8 soarer............

Yip, Toyota has the same on their itb's. I'll be running a vac line from each one for the MAP.

For the brake vacuum boost I'm going to fit a diesel Navara alternator. They run a small compressor off the back of them for the brake booster. :dry:

Interesting project, keen to see how it turns out. Certainly an unorthodox approach, especially given the car's purpose in life, but I wager you're a better judge of that than some bloke across the tasman on a computer!

Triple 2 barrel side draught setup on a S20 motor -

http://www.datsunhistory.com/skylineeng.jpg

Thats an L-series six old mate, only one cam there!

Edited by floody

Personally i would be steering clear of the Microtech. I ran an earlier LT8 on my old RB20, ok not an LT12 and they were a bit crude in the fuelling dept. They were also very sensitive to voltage, which is still a common problem based on some cars i see running the LT12.

After a lot of time and effort tuning i was finally able to get some reasonable control of fuel, and on an NA car you want the fuelling spot on to give you that sharp throttle response.

I know it wil partly kill the sound, but have you considered a big fibreglass airbox for the inelt setup? Filtration will be easier to sort, an important thing for rally car. You can also throw a an AFM on the front of it after the air filter panel. I have seen similar setups on several 80s rally cars running injection. It also means you can run the std ecy re-mapped to your needs.

I love what you are doing, every time i service for a friend i sit in the bush listening to all the cars coming through and dream of building a basic NA RB20 GTSt rally car. The sound of the RB20 through the bush would be awesome.... :)

Its a bit late..

But my old man just pick up a 26 intake manifold for his 25det. I been looking.. could custom trumpets just be slapped up to ITB's on a 26 manifold?

Because then you can mate to the head.. TPS is sorted.. etc

Edited by GTS4WD

26 intake with the 4age throttles? Could work. Mate of mine works in the CNC machining industry, so I've just given him another homer to do.

We're going to dummy up some runners next week and see what we can make fit.

a guy i know has fabricated plates to adapt the RB26 throttle bodies onto the RB25 head... let me know if you are keen and i can put you in touch with him. actually i think he has a thread floating around here somewhere

Hmm, got a small problem with the itb's. The Toyota factory spacing is too different to the head ports on the RB. I was just going to take up the difference by using the intake runners to line them up but now we've got it in bits I don't have enough length to do so.

So now the linkages between the itb's need to be modified and a new flange made to suit. No biggy, we'll get there...

Here's a pic of the smelly old head and ports. Will be good to see a nice shiney head in it's place.

screaminrally057du6.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

itbs007wy2.jpg

Also...

itbs008sn0.jpg

5 out of 6 fit!

Link ECU will be here in a day or two and the car is getting shipped back to the workshop where we can start:

Building the head

Re-plumb the coolant lines from the head.

Re-plumb the clutch master cylinder (that's why #6 don't fit)

Remove HICAS servo thingy

Wire in Toyota TPS

Plumb in MAP sensor

Move battery

Make new throttle cable

radiator

fan...

Oh god that's getting depressing!

Looking awesome mate!!

Roy: Microtechs were our ecu of choice, when wired up properly we rarely had any dramas with them, they have come along way in recent times, and for sheer bang for your buck i dont believe you can go past them for a full stand alone ecu once people get there head around the fact that not being plug and play for all applications isnt such a big deal. Customer service on the otherhand could do with some improvement.

Now that the ITB's are built and the dummy fitment has been carried out, we can get stuck in and remove all the stuff we no longer need, to make way for what we want.

Flicked out the radiator and took the stock head off the other afternoon.

itbsstrippedxi3.jpg

Now we can look into all the plumbing adjustments and flick some paint on the red bits.

My G4 Link ECU has turned up now too, so most of the bits I need to make it run are here.

  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah we're getting there slowly. We're all too busy to spend much time on it.

The engine bay has been cleaned and painted, I've re-plumbed the powersteering and removed the redundant HICAS pipes also.

I've prepped the block and should be fitting the head this week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...