Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My motor had an oil return from the back of the head but when we put it in my car it didn't fit (was in a commodore) so we put a blank there (the fitting for the return was so huge it was preventing us from tilting the motor back to get the gearbox in and out).

Now this hasn't presented an issue until a track day a few weeks ago where the sustained high revs started pushing a heap of oil into the catch can.

I'm trying to find the slimmest possible way of putting a decent sized oil return back on.. something along the lines of drilling/tapping the blank fitting in there at the moment and screwing in a banjo fitting of some sorts..

Any suggestions? and how big (ID) would the return have to be?

The problem is it's a gravity return, no pressure to move the oil though the pipe/hose. Plus, at high rpm, there is a lot of oil to move. So the biggest possible fitting and hose is the go.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks Gary :(

Yeah I figured it was gravity return and that's why the old fitting was so large.. wonder if I can find/make something that is wide but not deep..

Maybe two small banjo fittings.. guess I'm going to have to peruse mucho catalogues and see if there is anything to suit.

If I drill/tap the existing bung I have in there, I would need to be doing so as low as possible yes?

Yeah that's pretty much what it used to have but that fitting sticks a good couple of inches out the back of the head, there is probably *just* enough room to have it there but it has to be taken out everytime the engine goes in or out.

I'm trying to come up with a way to do the same thing but with something that only protudes say 20mm out of the head.

Edited by bubba

I machined up and fabricated one that fits the ID of the whole welsh plug hole with an ally pipe coming off it that goes down towards the inlet side, the ID of the return pipe is 3/4" and has a -12 fitting on the end. The whole block sticks out 39mm from the back of the head. In our r33, there is no problem with clearance when taking the motor in and out. The same fitting was used in a r32 4 door and the firewall had to be moved back for it to clear, but it wasnt much.

But both these are used in dry sump setups. But I would imagine you would want the return as big as possible as gary stated.

As said you can always move the firewall back a little!

just tap it in, give it the old tap tap taparoo.

Whats the problem you oil fitting you to good for your home???

ok im tired, im going to bed now...

lol wut?

get some sleep and try again :P

just tap it in, give it the old tap tap taparoo.

Whats the problem you oil fitting you to good for your home???

ok im tired, im going to bed now...

lol, don't worry, I got it, Happy Gilmore ftw!

I've got the same fitting as Al, also with 3/4" return and I don't have too much oil in the head problems. Mine is tapped into the head beside the welshplug though because a the engine doesnt sit flat in the engine bay and b you cant tap into a brass welsh plug so you have to machine a replacement for that as well. this is in a 32 (gtr). I have massaged the firewall for tilting clearance but did not need to just to fit it :thumbsup:

Cheers guys.

My head has had the welsh plug removed and thread tapped in, there is currently 1" BSP plug/bung/blank/whatever in there. Been talking to my mechanic and we're just going to put the old 90deg fitting that he was using back in.

Any dramas with T'ing into the turbo oil return?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...