Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want to buy a cf drive/prop shaft for my car from the current group buy,

Only my car is an R32 GTSt which will be running a R33 gearbox and normal rear end.

I figure since i need to mod the prop shaft i may as well get a new one. So does anyone know from their RB25 gearbox conversion whether the shaft length is any different? Shorter, longer? Or is it just different connections?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/223212-rb25-gearbox-conversion-into-an-r32/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
Hmm. probably need to just wait and confirm length of tailshaft whenever the 20 box blows

Sorry to bring up old thread, Roy did you ever end up putting the 25 box in your r32? Just wondering how did you solve the speedo sender problem if you have? Been doing my head in figuring out where to get the bits from in melbourne, having a little trouble tracking down a Navara speedo sender (dont know what year Navara and being told no longer stocked by others), i am not too confident with cutting and shuting bits and pieces to come up with a reliable solution, would much prefer a drop in option even if it is a bit more. You reckon you could throw any leads my way?? Cheers

Rob

You can get away with just dropping a Navara sender straight in if you have taller diff gears..

I put 3.9s in mine and the 17T Navara sender resulted in my speedo reading 7kmh high, perfectly fine as far as I'm concerned :blink:

If you don't have any luck finding a part number, shoot me a PM, I think I've still got the box at home somewhere.

  • 2 weeks later...

Playing with the sender myself at the moment. Got a navara sender and chopped off the gear as I have a 4.3 diff.

Pulled the cog from the 33 box and now not sure what way to go about attaching the 33 cog to the navara shaft?

The 33 senders cog was just attached with a circlip and the navara cog was moulded on meaning the shaft from the navara sender is full circle whereas the shaft from the 33 sender was alkf moon on the end.

So...I'm left with a cog thats half moon through the centre that needs to be attached to a full circle shaft. The cogs from the 33 are no longer available so dont want to muck it up. How have other people gone about it? My best thought was to get a dremel and small grinding stone and slowly chop it away?

Playing with the sender myself at the moment. Got a navara sender and chopped off the gear as I have a 4.3 diff.

Pulled the cog from the 33 box and now not sure what way to go about attaching the 33 cog to the navara shaft?

The 33 senders cog was just attached with a circlip and the navara cog was moulded on meaning the shaft from the navara sender is full circle whereas the shaft from the 33 sender was alkf moon on the end.

So...I'm left with a cog thats half moon through the centre that needs to be attached to a full circle shaft. The cogs from the 33 are no longer available so dont want to muck it up. How have other people gone about it? My best thought was to get a dremel and small grinding stone and slowly chop it away?

I have posted the solution to this problem so many times I've lost count.

Some others here have slowly caught on.

If you can't be bothered searching get a sharp round file and carefully make the half moon in the 33 cog perfectly round.

It will be a nice press fit onto the navara splined shaft and shouldn't need glue.

Don't forget to recut the location slot on the navara speedo drive 180 degrees opposite the original slot or it will only last a short while.

Touche mate.

I ended up searching and found the answers...many times over lol. I think I may go with grinding down the navara shaft though. Coz if I stuff up I can get another one. I also found that the R32 GTS4 has a 21 tooth cog. Cant find out which way the teeth are cut though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...