Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, it's still 25 hours.

And the changes come into effect on 30/06/2008, not next year.

Apparently those effected will receive green P plates in the mail. So don't worry bout having to buy another set :banana:

Oh yeah! $ saved there :P

At least its good to see theres no turbo ban for P plates coming to WA yet...

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

seems a bit strange that the government would say,

"well, we think you can drive, so here's your P plates, but we don't really think you can drive, so no driving between 12 - 5am"

you'd think the general public would be angry at the government, as they are the ones letting people drive (good old media, taking the blame away from the government)..... unless there's another way to get your licence ??? I've heard cereal boxes have been good over the years :D

Mine came in the mail today LOL.

As for the HPT.. I wasn't laughing, I was about to stab someone due to the stupidly long instructions making me frustrated lol.

Ok I might be sounding like an old man by saying this...

Alright so the majority of people get there P's when they turn 17. In 6 months time, you will still be 17. What the hell do you need to be out on the roads after midnight for? It's not like your capable of going to areas that require you to be 18 years or older. If your out cruising around in your car after midnight your either doing stupid shit like drag racing or speeding in the majority of cases. There are exceptions to this for people who have a genuine reason for being out but the majority of the time its technically true.

Thats my 2 cents.

I have to disagree with you there. Infact the only time I probably wouldn't be driving between those hours is when I'm drinking lol.

Edited by s2k12
Woo i got my 2nd phase test on the 30th i should pass it.. Only thing i failed last time was reverse parallel.. YEW! i miss the 6 month wait ! f**k YER BOY

Where did you do your test? When I did my driving test (@ midland) the driving guy didn't even ask for a parallel park, only a reverse & another one where I got to choose (which I just did a simple straight in :P )

I'm still waiting for my green Ps, I'm not paying another $3...

So you get green ps which means u cant drive at night / no alcohol.

Then you got Red P's saying that you can drive at night / 0.02 reading?

Whats this red/green p's? a mixed of the two?

So you get green ps which means u cant drive at night / no alcohol.

Then you got Red P's saying that you can drive at night / 0.02 reading?

Whats this red/green p's? a mixed of the two?

Red P's = the first 6 months = no driving at night & no alcohol.

Green P's = after the first 6 months = you can drive whenever but still can't have alcohol.

When I said red/green P's, I was refering to the actual P-plates that the DPI sent out to those effected, as they're red on one side and green on the other lol.

Edited by s2k12



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...