Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Anyone know of a GOOD turbo repairer in the S.E. suburbs of Melbourne?

The turbo on my M35 gave up last night. It just gave up! No smoke, just an odd sound then no boost.

Being that I live in Pakenham & work in Mornington, around that area would be perfect....

......although I would take it closer to the city if anyone knows of a particluarly good repairer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224246-decent-turbo-repairer/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Anyone know of a GOOD turbo repairer in the S.E. suburbs of Melbourne?

The turbo on my M35 gave up last night. It just gave up! No smoke, just an odd sound then no boost.

Being that I live in Pakenham & work in Mornington, around that area would be perfect....

......although I would take it closer to the city if anyone knows of a particluarly good repairer.

I don't know too much about turbo's but from what I have read there is usually a lot of smoke involved when they fail. I read about some one else with a similar problem and it was suggest that the check all the hoses for the turbo because if one cracks or they come off a mount there will be no boost.

Cheers

Andy

if u have been boosting it up past its boost limit then u could have exploded a wheel which will sound very bad and most probably end up in alot of smoke. if u have had no smoke u could possibly have just blown an intercooler hose off like the previous person stated. if u had blown a vacume line of u could have possibly had a massive boost spike which could destroy your turbo. i hope for you its just an intercooler line. i have scene where those turbo's are mounted and what a bitch.

if u have been boosting it up past its boost limit then u could have exploded a wheel which will sound very bad and most probably end up in alot of smoke. if u have had no smoke u could possibly have just blown an intercooler hose off like the previous person stated. if u had blown a vacume line of u could have possibly had a massive boost spike which could destroy your turbo. i hope for you its just an intercooler line. i have scene where those turbo's are mounted and what a bitch.

Car is Stock as a rock. All hoses and lines are connected. Car is in at the shop at the moment and apparently nothing is jumping out at the guys with the exception being that is is only making 0.6psi of boost!

Ever since I have had the car, the boost guage has only worked randomly. A new sensor was replaced at purchase, all hoses are clear from leaks and are clamped.

I can't help but think that this is going to be one of those "Well mate, done all we can but we can't figure it out but. By the way, here is our labour bill" type deals... :(

Quick thought... If you are going to design a turbocharged car, wouldn't you make the turbo reasonably accessible?

if the actuator arm was bent it would probably produce more boost as that would more than likely make it shorter and harder to open to waste gate. i do think however if it has slipped off then yeah you would get next to no boost. i am driving with no actuator at the moment as the guys who are building my new turbo needed it. not fun driving around in an N/A car with a turbo bolted on. but a decent mechanic shop should have spotted this straight away.

Hey guys,

Anyone know of a GOOD turbo repairer in the S.E. suburbs of Melbourne?

The turbo on my M35 gave up last night. It just gave up! No smoke, just an odd sound then no boost.

Being that I live in Pakenham & work in Mornington, around that area would be perfect....

......although I would take it closer to the city if anyone knows of a particluarly good repairer.

i was going to get my turbo rebuild by ATP but ended with a HKS-2535.... But give them a call

they are about 20mins from Pakenham....

http://www.atpturbo.com.au/

  • 2 months later...
Springvale , Westal rd more towards clayton ... www.recustoms.com.au they do a heap of engine rebuilds, or they can point you in the right direction

TJ

Thanks guys.

Actually, after the first "big name/rip off" workshop farted around with it for 2 days (and tried to bill me a rediculous amount of money for removing the front pipe), I decided to take it to RE Customs (who were very good with the car and have excellent customer service).

Brad & Michael got the turbo out without removing the engine and sent it iff to have it hi-flowed.

All steel internals used (T3 core) and it has not missed a beat since.

Just to let you know, the turbo shed some unwanted ceramic and needed new internals possibly due to the overly restrictive nature of the "compliance" exhaust which came on the car.

The exhaust has had no less than 4 cats removed from it (the factory cat is the only one to stay)!

Can't wait for my Fuji exhaust.... any day now :(

Thanks guys.

Actually, after the first "big name/rip off" workshop farted around with it for 2 days (and tried to bill me a rediculous amount of money for removing the front pipe), I decided to take it to RE Customs (who were very good with the car and have excellent customer service).

Brad & Michael got the turbo out without removing the engine and sent it iff to have it hi-flowed.

All steel internals used (T3 core) and it has not missed a beat since.

Just to let you know, the turbo shed some unwanted ceramic and needed new internals possibly due to the overly restrictive nature of the "compliance" exhaust which came on the car.

The exhaust has had no less than 4 cats removed from it (the factory cat is the only one to stay)!

Can't wait for my Fuji exhaust.... any day now :P

wow, they got it out without removing the engine? those guys must be good :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...