Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Motul turbolite 10w40 is just a Semi-Syn oil, I would recommend at least a fully synthetic for turbo cleanliness and high temp protection. A wide spread 10w40 type semi-syn is not really a good idea for ring cleanliness i would think. Choose Mobil 0w40 or Delvac 5w40, whichever is cheaper. those are good oil at reasonable prices.

Theres a lot of speculation about what to get lately, is this because of summer?

I am running Mobil 1 5W50 at the moment and was gunna put Motul 10W40 in next month for my routine oil change but your saying its no good for ring cleanliness being semi-synth.

So Delvac 5W40 (If I can find it for sale) or Mobil 0W40 would be better and cost less?

Theres a lot of speculation about what to get lately, is this because of summer?

I am running Mobil 1 5W50 at the moment and was gunna put Motul 10W40 in next month for my routine oil change but your saying its no good for ring cleanliness being semi-synth.

So Delvac 5W40 (If I can find it for sale) or Mobil 0W40 would be better and cost less?

Ok, a wide spread oil like 10w40 Semi-Syn are going to contain loads of VII (viscosity index improver), these VII polymer are weak in nature and will form deposit under high heat & shearing condition. That's not really a good ideal for a hot & fast spinning turbo, do we...

That's why a good Synthetic (naturally multi-grade thus also eliminating the use of VII) with mostly group IV (PAO) or V (polyol ester) base oil will have a performance advantage over any Semi-Syn or mineral oil out there.

Delvac 1 are rumors to be group IV/V blend while Mobil 1 0w40 are PAO/AN blend thus the value.

Edited by Trex101

Motul Turbolight is OK for the money. Some places charge >$40 for a bottle and thats a rip off for a pretty ordinary oil semisynthetic. People get all excited because it has the word "Turbo" in the name and assume its a good oil for turbo based cars. Judging by its OEM/API certifications, its pretty ordinary.

Hello all, im about to do another oil change dropping the 0w-40 castrol edge.

Im leaning towards the motul but which one for the high horse power RB25.

MOTUL 300v chrono 10w-40

MOTUL 300v power 5w-40 or the 5w-30

Busky2k helped me out alot last time with advice, what do you think.

Busky2k knows his stuff like trex.

They might suggest the 10W40 300V from that selection. The a general all rounder and favoured in Oz.

If its street car, daily driver I would be leaning towards a 5w30 300V as like the redline is HTHS and film strength is quite high for a 30wt which better cold start cSt ratings for engine protection.

But ppl in Oz are scared of the "thin" oils...even though most ppl are not clear on what their requirements really are. The US OEM of choice for new cars these days is like 20wt!

If ur car sees any tracks...at least the 40wt IMO.

im using formular R 10w-60 on my GTR and been thinking of going 5w-30 or similar.. havent had problems with the 10w-60 but the price of $55 for a bottle is a bit exy.. just wondering if anyone reckons the swap will be noticable? better fuel economy as its thinner.? GTR doesnt chew oil.. A1 condition.. ;)

0w-40 should cope with heat better than the 5w-30.

the GTR sees no track and is realy a commuter so the 10w-60 is a waste i think..

thanks

mark.

Edited by markimak
im using formular R 10w-60 on my GTR and been thinking of going 5w-30 or similar.. havent had problems with the 10w-60 but the price of $55 for a bottle is a bit exy.. just wondering if anyone reckons the swap will be noticable? better fuel economy as its thinner.? GTR doesnt chew oil.. A1 condition.. :happy:

0w-40 should cope with heat better than the 5w-30.

the GTR sees no track and is realy a commuter so the 10w-60 is a waste i think..

thanks

mark.

I would suggest GC 0w30 for both fuel economy gain & protection but do check for fuel dilution (UOA) if you are running rich AFR.

Edited by Trex101

im using penrite SIn 10w70 in my r32 gtst its ok but after the cars warm and you start it again it seems to get average oil pressure. ill be changing to motul crono 10w40 next oil change the warm ups for that oil could be exciting though... having close neighbours.. and going to work at 5am they'll love the loud rb rumble!

warming a car up by letting it idle is an absolute waste of time. start it, wait 10-15 seconds for the oil to circulate and then drive off gently.

not only that, long idle peroids is bad on ur cyls also. Glazing I think is the correct term.

is german castrol same as castrol.?

would i notice a difference switching from 10w-60 to 5w-30 castrol EDGE?

can someone give some hard evidence on pros and cons on warming it up. im a firm believer of warming the GTR and GTT up. having ceramic turbos and all. saves ur rings. gets the oil closer into the heat range

is german castrol same as castrol.?

would i notice a difference switching from 10w-60 to 5w-30 castrol EDGE?

can someone give some hard evidence on pros and cons on warming it up. im a firm believer of warming the GTR and GTT up. having ceramic turbos and all. saves ur rings. gets the oil closer into the heat range

I noticed the difference when i went from a 10w 60 edge to the 0w 40 edge motor ran cooler and it felt like better acleration.

It's amazing how many placebo feelers there are. Some of you guys have siad it makes the motor run smoother, idles better, turbo spools faster, etc.

Does it make your radio run smoother too? does it make your seat more comfortable?

Honestly, any difference in feel would be hardly able to be felt. It'd be interesting to see if the oil was changed wihtout them knowing what oil is actually in there to see if htey can feel it.

is german castrol same as castrol.?

would i notice a difference switching from 10w-60 to 5w-30 castrol EDGE?

can someone give some hard evidence on pros and cons on warming it up. im a firm believer of warming the GTR and GTT up. having ceramic turbos and all. saves ur rings. gets the oil closer into the heat range

no.

check the link in the origional post.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...