The Goods On Oils

[LatinR33]

Hmmmm for a R33 skyline with 91,000km think it would be safe and not too thin to use this mobil 0w40. Maybe the low cold viscosity would eliminate the lifter noise when cold which is the only time i can hear em.

[DECIM8]

Hows GC 0w-30 sound to you .. Trex101 said to grab some .. but im skeptical as the recommended is like 15w-40!?

[SS8_Gohan]

rule 1: Trex101 advice is a MILLION times more valid than mine.

mate, if you can get some GC 0w30, go nuts! afaik, step above the Mobil 1 0w40

this too thin stuff is crap. Trex101, khunjeng, REALLY know their stuff. It's 110% fine... don't worry about what your local mechanic says

[DECIM8]

How would i make sure its protecting my engine tho?

[Rolls]

Have you tried Redline Light Weight Shock Proof? If have and doesn't work then Redline D4 ATF (only ATF rated GL-4) maybe what you need to squeeze out of whatever remaining life from your GB.

Cheers but I'm not going to waste $100 on oil when a whole gearbox will cost ~$500. Just curious if its worth it to prolong its life a bit more, if it won't help I wont bother. Anyone ever done this and had any results?

[DECIM8]

So how would I know if its protecting my engine enough? I mean it will prob cost $100 or so for it concidering its 5L I assume like most oils if I see it dropping in level quickly it means its being burnt off to quick and not protecting my engine?

Im really not into a rebuild .. I trust the advice im just taking procautions to avoid a catastrophie

Thanks

[Trex101]

So how would I know if its protecting my engine enough? I mean it will prob cost $100 or so for it concidering its 5L I assume like most oils if I see it dropping in level quickly it means its being burnt off to quick and not protecting my engine?

Im really not into a rebuild .. I trust the advice im just taking procautions to avoid a catastrophie

Thanks

Do a used oil analysis, khunjeng knows where to get it.

Is your engine having oil consumption? If yes, find the root cause first & fix it before you try new oil.

[DECIM8]

No its not .. its fine I just wanted to make sure the advice you gave me is able to be backed by a test .. concidering its fairly expensive wouldnt want to run shit oil and have to put more in later

[khunjeng]

No its not .. its fine I just wanted to make sure the advice you gave me is able to be backed by a test .. concidering its fairly expensive wouldnt want to run shit oil and have to put more in later

mate we are no here to prove anything to you. If you dont like our advice then dont take it.

If your unsure buy Mobil 1 and be done with it.

[khunjeng]

Hows GC 0w-30 sound to you .. Trex101 said to grab some .. but im skeptical as the recommended is like 15w-40!?

yes get it and get it off Harold via his web site or ebay. His prices are not much more expensive than M1 off the shelf in Repco.

[DECIM8]

mate im just asking a question.. dont answer if you dont want to .. dont give me shit for asking tho

All I asked was would your advice cause premature wear on the engine and how could I test it .. What do you expect me to trust the advice of two randoms on a forum ive never met and all I know you could be 12?! common the questions are fair enough I just want enough infomation and ways to prevent damage that I can get..

Jebuz!!

And more to the point ill be buying the oil

Edited May 19, 2007 by DECIM8

[DECIM8]

Also just readin bout the oil .. would I use a different oil for summer use?

[khunjeng]

Buy it and be happy. as for summer, dont worry.

Your questions have been covered more than once in this thread, serach is a good option.

[HotPlates]

Cheers but I'm not going to waste $100 on oil when a whole gearbox will cost ~$500. Just curious if its worth it to prolong its life a bit more, if it won't help I wont bother. Anyone ever done this and had any results?

If the box is only going to cost you $500, then you should definately go down this path. But to answer your question, yes the Light Weight Shock Proof will prolong its life. In mine it relieved the notchiness and allowed me to quick shift. Probably the best $120 I've spent on the car results wise. I didn't think it would work, but it did. This was after a gb oil change which had fresh Motul put in. Red Line is expensive, but well worth it in my case.

[Rolls]

Well that's what I've been told a 2nd hand rb20 box is worth, I haven't done any research, am I dreaming?

[Cubes]

S/h RB20DET box is worth $500 from the wreckers.

'Some' attempt to rip us off and slug $800-$900. Always shop around.

I've never had issues with the castrol synthetic oil in my box. I believe its what Roy uses also; unsure if he's recently jumped camp or not.

[DECIM8]

Alright thanks will do then

[some_cs_student]

Hi,

I'm pretty clueless about things such as oils but I've read through the thread and I'm still struggling with the concept of oil viscosity ratings and which oil to use.

I've been having a look at : http://performancelub.com

And the price between royal purple and mobil 1 seems pretty close but Redline is damn expensive.

Anyway, lets use Royal purple as an example, they make:

5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40, 15w40 & 20w50

Now, if I am reading correctly, the first number "5" means that the oil flows easier at cooler temperatures.

So the "10w" would take a little longer to warm up and start flowing easily?

And the "20w" would take even longer?

The upper number, "30", "40" et cetera is the temperature the oil thickens at when its hot, I can't remember how to work out the temperature but I know the larger the number the higher temp it will take to make the oil thicken is that correct?

I've been reading: http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

Anyway, on my other question, I now own an R33 GTR with a fair number of mods (I'm going to find out exactly what soon) I know its aftermarket intercooler, radiator, full engine rebuild (unknown mods), and possibly aftermarket turbo's (the auction did not detail this). The car has also done 148K, Km

Would I be better off buying a Royal purple 10w30, or a 10w40? Or do I need to find out my oil temps during use?

Or would you recommend the Mobil 1 0w40 (or 10w30)?

The car will be street driven with occasional track use, but not anytime soon so for now it will be a street car

Regards,

Gareth

[Trex101]

Would I be better off buying a Royal purple 10w30, or a 10w40? Or do I need to find out my oil temps during use?

Or would you recommend the Mobil 1 0w40 (or 10w30)?

The car will be street driven with occasional track use, but not anytime soon so for now it will be a street car

Regards,

Gareth

There is alot of factors to consider when choosing oil weight and it's quite difficult to give you any good advice by your above description.

There are 2 major considerations in choosing oil viscosity,

1) Fuel dilution (fuel blowby into oil sump effectively thin down the oil viscosity)

Thicker oil can withstand more fuel dilution then thinner oil but thicker oil also causes friction drag, slower spool, higher FC and more startup wear.

For example: If you run Penrite Sin 25 25w60 in your engine, at 10’c morning when you first crank your engine, you would have effectively run 1131cSt startup viscosity. That’s like 4.5 time thicker then Mobil 1 0w40 (248.8cSt@10’c). It’s like running greases through your engine instead of oil.

2) Engine oil temp

Higher oil temp effectively thins the oil down.

For example: Mobil 1 0w40 is 14.3cSt @ 100'c but when avg oil temp raise to 120'c, it would have thin down to 9.1cSt which mean that it is effectively a 20wt oil (you do not want to run a 20wt oil when you racing down a track, do you). So if your avg oil temp are 90’c, any 30wt oil will do as it is effectively a 40wt oil at that temperature.

The key to the correct oil viscosity depends on mostly the above 2 conditions. There is no one size fit all oil.

Oh, IMO some brand of oil are known to withstand quite abit of fuel dilution before thinning down. Redline & German Castrol is one of them. That’s why it’s highly recommended in BITOG for track or high hp muscle car usage.

Edited May 19, 2007 by Trex101

[LatinR33]

Hey got the oil prob out of the way. To get rid of the sticky lifters which i believe is cause the lifter noise upon start up im thinking of using wynns oil flush. Ive heard some conflicting stories about these products what does the skyline faithful think about them. Im sure it would help the prob but is it safe???