Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The key to the correct oil viscosity depends on mostly the above 2 conditions. There is no one size fit all oil.

Trex101, thanks for your help, I'm still learning about things such as oil so I didn't know what you needed to understand about the car for a response.

Your post makes sense, I'll have a look around and I might try out Mobil 1 first as it seems to have quite a good reputation.

Although another question, if Mobil Delvac 1 and the normal Mobil 1 0w40 were the same price, which one would you recommend for a GTR?

Regards,

Gareth

Trex101, thanks for your help, I'm still learning about things such as oil so I didn't know what you needed to understand about the car for a response.

Your post makes sense, I'll have a look around and I might try out Mobil 1 first as it seems to have quite a good reputation.

Although another question, if Mobil Delvac 1 and the normal Mobil 1 0w40 were the same price, which one would you recommend for a GTR?

Regards,

Gareth

If you can find Delvac that would be good.

There is nothing wrong with M1.

Trex101, thanks for your help, I'm still learning about things such as oil so I didn't know what you needed to understand about the car for a response.

Your post makes sense, I'll have a look around and I might try out Mobil 1 first as it seems to have quite a good reputation.

Although another question, if Mobil Delvac 1 and the normal Mobil 1 0w40 were the same price, which one would you recommend for a GTR?

Regards,

Gareth

That's a hard choice. First, I would choose the cheaper of the 2, but if both are the same price, personally i would choose M1 0w40.

Delvac 1 though very well build couple with good base stock & additives pack, it still a dual rate oil (petrol/diesel API SL/CI-4+), this limits the friction modifier in the oil thus may affect FC and throttle responses. That’s why I’m slightly biases against D1 but it is still my first choice for 4-stroke bike though.

Hey guys,

Ive heard alot about these Penrite SIN oils, theyre meant to perform very well and im thinking of trying it next oil change..

Anyone running these oils? What would be be recommended for a r34 gtt around 60 thoukms' ... they have 15W-40 and 0w-50 in the brand?

thnx

Hey guys,

Ive heard alot about these Penrite SIN oils, theyre meant to perform very well and im thinking of trying it next oil change..

Anyone running these oils? What would be be recommended for a r34 gtt around 60 thoukms' ... they have 15W-40 and 0w-50 in the brand?

thnx

eeeeeee....... Pentrite sin and rb's should never be used in the same sentance.

Edited by URAS

i just put royal purple 10w40 in on the weekend, can't say i've noticed much difference (but i also upped the boost a little bit at the same time...)

but i rest easier knowing its got good blood in it.

**Also, anyone who is on the gold coast - tell autobarn to start keeping this on hand, cos I had to pay 8 freight when i had them order it in for me (sleazey c*nts) and then they say "hmm haha, we should keep this on stock, you're like the 10th person to order it haha" that's when i jumped the counter and smashed his head into the til, grabbed the cash, my oil (of course) and a little smelly pine tree for the road and then peeled the hell outa there! Or that's how i remember it anyway....

actually maybe we should ask them to stock redline while we're at it?

guys i think youve mistaken penrite mineral oils.... theyre pretty average i know... but check out thier SIN (synthetic) oils, rated very highly in recent testing.

Have a read of street commodores mag no. 108, they have tested the 18 top oils on the market through various tests. Out of them Royal Purple and Penrite SIN oils performed the best... funny to see the Mobil 1, Motul, Redline, and Castrol Performance synthetic oils performing so bad...

So just before you guys bag the penrite have a read its very interesting :D

guys i think youve mistaken penrite mineral oils.... theyre pretty average i know... but check out thier SIN (synthetic) oils, rated very highly in recent testing.

Have a read of street commodores mag no. 108, they have tested the 18 top oils on the market through various tests. Out of them Royal Purple and Penrite SIN oils performed the best... funny to see the Mobil 1, Motul, Redline, and Castrol Performance synthetic oils performing so bad...

So just before you guys bag the penrite have a read its very interesting :D

The StreetCommodores editor has admitted that the test is flawed & not representative of actual engine condition in one of their articles. Street Commodores did indeed print a retraction and apology to its readers.

This simple Timken test is only good for grease then actual oil performance.

http://www.streetforce.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

Edited by Trex101
The StreetCommodores editor has admitted that the test is flawed & not representative of actual engine condition in one of their articles. Street Commodores did indeed print a retraction and apology to its readers.

This simple Timken test is only good for grease then actual oil performance.

http://www.streetforce.com.au/news/01_oils_aint_oils.php

Ah right, woops i didnt know that lol. Well then id still like to know someone who uses PENRITE SIN OILS! 15-40 theyre roughly ~$66 Castrol Edge 10-30 ~$45

Im kinda stuck with which to go with? Like would the benefits be that noticable? OR is thier anything else in this price range 66 is getting a bit high for me....

Ah right, woops i didnt know that lol. Well then id still like to know someone who uses PENRITE SIN OILS! 15-40 theyre roughly ~$66 Castrol Edge 10-30 ~$45

Im kinda stuck with which to go with? Like would the benefits be that noticable? OR is thier anything else in this price range 66 is getting a bit high for me....

I've got Penrite SIN in my beast, the 15w

i used to run HPR30 in my RB30, its made for it, and they love it, so i thaught this was a fair compromise for my rebuilt 25/30 and the car seems to love it, i fully flushed my old oil (with a little bit of kero, then run clean from cheap oil, and left to drip dry for an hour or so) it seems to love this oil, smoothest its ever been (tried a fair few oils, though never royal purple or Mobil 1) way more rev happy, really smoothed out the poor rb30 bottom's top end revs (5.5-6k+)

and it seems to love a tassie cold start, no more noisy lumping, quiet and smooth, but then i have had no decent synthetics to compare against

go for royal purple.

what? its shit..... dont tell me you read the street commodores oil test........ what a sham that was. using a grease tester to test oils.... hello.

Mobil 1

Motul 300v

or Redline 10w-40 are the only oils i will use, after 12 years playing with imports i can tell you i will never ever use castrol (any, as there shelf oils are not what goes in race cars) pentrite sin (turns to water to quickly when pushed hard) or royal purple as it is just like every other plain jane oil.

Edited by URAS

Dont' rule out the German Castrol Trent :D (not available here, so you're still correct to an extent :P)

probably rubbish, i'm running 0w40 in my R34. Unless you're doing some SERIOUS track work, pressue will be fine

Hows the oil pressure on the mobil 1 5w50?? Ive been told with mobil the oil pressure can be a lil low when can gets hot?? or is this just rubbish!!!!!

Pressure is directly proportion to viscosity, the thicker it is the higher is the pressure. This also mean higher pressure will have lower flow rate. You need both flow rate and pressure to fully optimize the operation of the oil system. IMO 50wt oil is just too thick for most application except racing or autocross....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...