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ok so i purchased an r34 gtr vspec with some mods, i read a couple of pages on here but dont have the time to read the whole thing, im looking for the right oil to use for it, im very anal and im looking for comments from people with crudentials on the matter, dont want to end up putting in GTX 2 from just hear say....lol

any help would be awesome

just thought i'd have my say. a bit late on this topic but yeah lol.

well my dad and i have been into cars since forever he got me into them natuarally and him and his 2 other brothers have built and blown up so many engines etc.

we used titan oils in the race car with fuchs oil stabiliser. i run titan 15-40w in my skyline engine, never misses a beat.

i did used to use castrol formula r 0-40w in our old race engine and we thought it was teh shiz, but at 90bucks a bottle was expensive but none the less it worked. how ever we did go threw a few engines.. (apperently the oil wasnt lubricating enough or somethin.. was a possiblity) then we changed to titan and no probs wat so ever and its almost half the price.

best advice is go with wat u no. if ur new just read the back and forget the price tags. go with what u no and as long as u change it every 5thou everything should be sweet.!

Br33nt :/

Edited by bR33nt
  • 2 weeks later...

wtf is the deal with motul 300 chrono coming in 2l and 4l bottles only? Why no 5l ? My understanding is skylines take 4.5-5l so I'd have to buy 1 x 4l and 1x2l which comes to about $170 ..what a joke. I'd be prepared to pay $120 for 5l but $170 is a bit ridiculous especially when 1l will be wasted

edit: can i save that remaining 1l for next service in 7000-8000Kms? Then I could just buy another 4l and use together with the old 1l remains. Or will the oil 'go bad' in 8-12 months sitting around in a mostly empty container?

Edited by Delta Force

it's a bit of a bugger for us, but think about it though. You order 6litres one time, then 4 the next, 6 the next, 4 after that. So it's the same as buying 5 each time.

So really, it's no difference. That's what i do with performancelub.com - order 6 one time, then 4 the next using the 1 i have left over from last time. Works out fine and it's nice to only order 4, it "seems" like a cheaper service :)

i'd say 6 months would be fine if kept in a cool/dry place. You either want to change oil on km intervals or on time. For me, it's more time these days because i'd only do around 5000-6000km's a year, so i just change oil once every 6 months.

I've used oil kept in a cool/dry spot that's been sitting for at least 6 months, no issues for my car.

alot of people including me have been using motul 4100 turbolight

now im sceptical because this isnt fully synthetic???

is this still alright to use???

If its an older car the 4100 is probably a better choice as it will leak less. The 8100 is definitely a better oil, but the 4100 is still very far ahead of what the motor was designed to be used with.

are there any issues with changing oil viscocities or going from sym blend to full syn

i'm just about to do my first service on the car since owning it and have no idea what oil is in it

would it be best to do a quick change ie 2000kms to ensure the oils dont mix and go bad for safety sake?

plan on doing a change as per the nissan guide under the bonnet of 10,000kms

i mean nissan say it is ok wouldn't it be alright then?

car is not a track car and i dont drive it hard

regarding colour of the oil, this also depends on the cleaner additives in the oil, as they're picking up the crap so to speak, making the coil appear darker... i think

10K changes are fine for what you describe. But i'd still go with a full synth at those intervals.

If you don't know what's in there maybe do a quick change with a semi-synth, like castrol edge, and then dump that have a couple thousand and switch to a full synth for your 10K changes.

just had my regular service done and chrono 300v put in ... car seems to run pretty much the same as before with a much cheaper oil ("Hi-tec" brand ..same viscocity as the Chrono) but I've notieced something that's a bit of a worry now ...

Every time I start the car from cold the oil pressure needle stays on 0 for about 1-2 seconds before it quickly jumps to 6kg/cm. With the old oil the oil pressure needle would instantly jump up without this delay. Should I be worried ? It's as if the Chrono doesn't build up the required oil pressure for 1-2 seconds on cold starts ??

There is no such thing as the oil not being able to build up enough pressure. If that was the case it would mean your oil pump is f**ked. Its just going to be the factory pressure sender unit acting up. Nothing to worry about. 300V is great oil, but of course it's going to feel like it runs the same, it's just oil. Difference is the 300V won't break down when your driving the car hard, unlike the cheap oil you were using which most likely would. I however do find that the engine picks up revs a lot quicker from about 5000rpm compared to the Turbolight 10W40.

Edited by PM-R33

Okay my situation is runnind a SR20DET in a S13 that only does trackdays and driving to and from....

I am torn between

Royal Purple 10w40, 20w50

Motul 4100

Chrono 300v

Engine is about 100K kms old so thinking more the 20w50.....

Any ideas, thoughts for a track dedicated car???

Hey guys, I've read quite a bit but I wanted to ask, possibly a silly question, coz I haven't seen the answer anywhere...I'm needing to do an oil change on my 32 GTR, I'll be using Motul 4100...what I'm wondering is, how much oil exactly does the RB26 take...?? The full 5L or what ?

J

Hey guys, does anyone have experience with used oil analysis?

I am in Sydney and am keen to get my oil tested, can anyone recommend a place and give an indication of price?

I know of a few places but am after recommendations from personal experience.

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