Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Snap.

After endless "best oil" searching and no discernable conclusion looking likely , ever, I went with a Valvolene 10-30 semi syn which behaved like flushing oil when hot according to my oil pressure gauge so I rissoled it after 20ks and having read every oil bottle label in Autobarn that seemed remotely relevant I to decided on the Nulon 10-40 fast flow fullsyn and so far it's looking good, nice hot /cold oil pressures and the engine sounds comfortable.

Not at all technical but seems as good a yard stick as many I've read.

:rolleyes:

+1

Been running nulon 10w40 full syn for 2 years now and I'm also happy with it. I changed oil and filter every 5000k, then after rebuild did it every 3000k, and straight after track days. Also happy with cold and hot running pressures and engine is smooth.

i have a 2000 r34 gtt, manual with 80,000km and was after some gearbox oil, ive looked for a long hard time and are having trouble making sence of things.

i just want to know what to get? how many litres and how much roughly it is, im in vic, eastern suburbs

Also was looking at castrol motor oil for the engine but they dont offer a full synthic 5-40w?

Hmm fair enough. I'm pretty sure the Motul rep we used to have said 4100 was a group III. I also got told Motul don't make anything below a group III, yet on that list it lists a group II?

whoever told you is wrong we only NOW make group 4 oils and up as we discontinued all our 400 motion and 2000 mineral range in package line

http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke20.html

That clearly states that 4100 is a semi-synth

well it is in acea (European) standards as thats what Motul go by as to them anything but 100% synthetics are semis it's quite complicated .......

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm using Castrol Formula R 5W-30 (full synth). It costs $50 for 5 litres from Auto 1.

Edit: I no longer use the above oil. Not so much for the thickness of the oil but mostly because I think it's hell dodgy for a synthetic oil. I gave up using Castrol long ago.

Do a search, The engine oil bible, it's worth a read.

There is tons of stuff on the web when it comes to oil.

Can anyone help me?

My car is just a fairly stock 33 gtst(just got exhaust and a pod filter). It is never tracked and isnt driven much harder than the average prius, though I very occasionally engage in a bit of spirited driving. Most of my trips are quite short though average drive would be about 5km. I am about to do the first oil change on it since my ownership which is ~8500kms since last owner did it.

Which oil should I be using, preferably would like something not too expensive, $80 for 5L would be about my limit if possible. I was thinking also 10w40 grade? is this good for the application. Also would like to know where I can buy some decent oil in perth as I cant find anything other than just basic supercheap auto stuff

If its a stockish R33 GTST and your changing often you could go a cheaper oil, Performancelub (see signature) sells quality oil with cheap shipping.

I personally use German Castrol 0w30 in a GTR and it was good, I'm also trying Amsoil 10w40 although its a little more expensive.

hey all

i stupidly picked up some Mobil 1 0w40 oil for the R34 the other day (after being told any decent synthetic will do). now im being told it could be too thin for the engine

so should i take it back and get something like 5w or 10w?

as far as im concered.. the lower the cold weight the better....

u want thin oil at start up = fast lubrication of the engine and its not like you will trash the car when its cold.

Whoever told you its too "thin" doesnt know what they are talking about.

btw the difference between 0 and 5 is literally nothing.

I Currently use Motul Turbolight 4100 10w40 in my R32 Gts-t for day to day driving and am very pleased with it... :cool:

But I want to start some track/drift work :banana: so,

What viscosity Motul oils do you guys recommend for track use?

you' be surprised how many mechanics, shop assistants etc will tell you that a 5w or 0w oil is "too thin" for an RB motor.

Probably is for an rb30 or an old redtop rb20. My rb30s and old rb20 both leaked when using 5-40 fully synth. When I put 10-40 semi synth in them they stopped burning and leaking oil.

Protection wise theres no such thing as too thin oil, but on an old motor with poor tollerances too thin oil will leak and get in places it shouldn't.

Edited by Rolls

hey guys just about to do a motor oil change and last service i used castrol. but was looking for a change.. seen today the nulon looked decent.. anyone have any recommendations on whats worth a good go..

i own an r32 gtr pushin 300kw+ or thereabouts at wheels.. its now daily driven and also gets a decent revvin here and there :)

oh and its done just over 80000ks..

cheers

Corey

  • 2 weeks later...

I know nothing about oils and have no mechanical qualifications outside of , I hope , common sense and 45 years of driving experiance and DIY servicing .

After reading a shit load of posts it would seem to me the problem is one that is inherant with the RB engines and that is that the pump shoves all the oil into the top of the block/head and as the oil can't drain back fast enough so the bottom end 'can' starve resulting in spun bearings and all sorts of mischief.

Basicly what this would seem to mean in a practical sense is that an engine that should be good on 15x50 in summer and 10x40 in winter (never mind the syn v dino atm) actualy has a manufacturers spec of 7.5 x 30 so that it's thin enough to actualy drain back and not cause bottom end starvation , what a crock, 7.5 x 30 what were they thinking ?

Living in SE Qld I am lucky enough to not to have to worry to much about wildly excesive high/low temperatures,sure we get a couple of chilly ones and a few hot ones so good ole common sense says to me no floggy when too hot/cold.

As the average ambient temp is consistantly higher here that the manufacturers would have likely planned for in most of these cars I have gone for 10 x 40 Nulon Hi Flow Full Synthetic (as I posted previously) .

The price is good, the oil specification seems on the money and the results seem fine with a good hot/cold oil pressure, smooth running engine and a fuel consumption of 13.3ltr 100klms.(98 R34GTT)

I now wait with baited breath for someone to shoot down my methodoligy :D

Corey is that a genuine 80,000kms or is that just what the speedo says?

Mark

not entirely certain mate, car was imported by a mate whom imports personally.. he hasnt got a yard tho..

and when i got it 2 yrs ago it had 60000 on it then, i saw all the auction paperwork stating grade 4 etc., my interior is spotless. underneath is perfect. it came with everything very standard on it..

but in saying that i dont know how else to tell..

it came in very good condition.. no real wear in all the usual places..

thinking about using nulon.. seems to be decent from what im reading..

Wow, sounds like a winner mate, nice. That condition is a pretty good indicator. The odometer rarely lines up once it has been rewound. Plus, the purchase price may be an indicator as guys selling good cars will not sell them for same as the old clunkers, and it's hard (not impossible) to pass off an old clunker as a good car.

Nulon 10-40W sounds like the ticket. Well, any 10-40 but if Nulon floats your boat, then go for it. I'm no oil expert, yet I never had any dramas relating to oil or ever sat there thinking "...if only I bought the Royal Purple..."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...