The Goods On Oils

[Moodles2]

15 is too thick a cold rating, 5w-40 is perfect.

[JSTA33]

just put some 80-90 oil in my rb25det gearbox.

and the gear changes seem really loose, changes alot quiker too.

but second gear grinds now.

is 80-90 oil too thin? should i go thicker?

[jakez88]

^^ isn't that the recommended viscosity?

does anyone know if the 75w-90 Nulon Smooth Shift semi synth will work well? has anyone tried it? gearbox is abit crunchy at the moment for 2nd and 4th. or does anyone have any other alternatives that i can use in the gear box besides this?

[Moodles2]

Shockproof got rid of my high rpm 4th gear crunch completely

[jakez88]

^^ thanks man but i would really like to know about nulons stuff especially the smooth shift 75w-90. anyone had experience with it in a skyline box?

also reading alot about GL4 gear oils are better for our cars then GL5? someone confirm?

Edited November 5, 2009 by jakez88

[Nosure]

I use RP in EVO and GTR. no problem, i'm not sure what oil is best. but RP does the job so far

the good thing i found about rp is cold start batter (smoother). but the rp oil turn dark very quick. i don't know its a good thing or not

[BASHO]

^^ thanks man but i would really like to know about nulons stuff especially the smooth shift 75w-90. anyone had experience with it in a skyline box?

also reading alot about GL4 gear oils are better for our cars then GL5? someone confirm?

I'm using Nulon 75-85 fully synthetic smooth shift in my R34GTT which is a GL4 and it works fine, I wouldn't go any heavier unless it was Castrol 75-90 syntrans (again a GL4) not to be confused with Syntrax 75-90 do not use any gear oil that has a Hypoid component--some idiot did in mine ---ah hem whilst not doing any damage it is not fun for your syncros..I believe that most of the GL5 gear oils contain the dreaded unwanted hypoids though some one will set me straight if I'm wrong I'm sure.

[jakez88]

^^ yeh thanks for that mate. thats the answer i was looking for but found out myself last night and this morning which one i needed. GL4 is what we need in our boxes. for any future users of nulon products for your gearbox, the one you need is the smooth shift 75w-85 fully synthetic.

didnt go that way though but went the vmx 80. was thinking to go fully synthetic but i think it was all in my head that my box was stuffed bad as it crunches always under load from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th wihtout fail. ended up being the oil in there was prob the orginal oil from factory as it looked so bad with bits of metal and so on. put in vmx 80 as alot of you guys have and worked well. could be better but the crunches aren't there any more which i'm happy about.

Also went with motul turbolight 10w40. car runs smoother then when it was on castrol edge 5w30.

Edited November 6, 2009 by jakez88

[Sl33pR GTR]

Hi guys,

What specs of royal purple oil would I use in my 33 GTR? Had an engine rebuild less than 10000ks.

Does anyone have more info on Royal purple oil?

Cheers in Advance

[Moodles2]

Hi guys,

What specs of royal purple oil would I use in my 33 GTR? Had an engine rebuild less than 10000ks.

Does anyone have more info on Royal purple oil?

Cheers in Advance

The normal Royal Purple has been mentioned to be a Group IV (full synthetic), the XPR is a Group V (100% full synth double ester like Motul 300V).

[cactus]

The normal Royal Purple has been mentioned to be a Group IV (full synthetic), the XPR is a Group V (100% full synth double ester like Motul 300V).

I plan to run Castrol Edge (gold bottle) 10-60 in my freshly built RB30DET when it goes on the dyno for its final tune (with 18psi). Does this oil sound alright? I really have no idea what to use, this was on the advice of a few people who deal the stuff...

[Moodles2]

I plan to run Castrol Edge (gold bottle) 10-60 in my freshly built RB30DET when it goes on the dyno for its final tune (with 18psi). Does this oil sound alright? I really have no idea what to use, this was on the advice of a few people who deal the stuff...

Should use the oil your engine builder recommends

[SS8_Gohan]

Royal Purple can be sourced from

www.performancelub.com

10-60 sounds pretty ridiculous to me - but you said it's a freshly built engine, so who knows, might change the game a bit. But Moodles2 advice is right, go with what your builder recommends. He/she just built, he doesn't want to blow it up now does he

The days of 10w60 are gone IMO, something like 5w30 is where most of our cars should be at, and true synthetic oil. Can't really go wrong then.

[cactus]

Yeah it wasn't the builders advice, it was from a guy that owns an Auto One store here in Perth, but he is also heavily involved in rally etc. so knows his shit. Why does 10-60 sound so ridiculous? Is that quite a high heat rating or something? I jumped on the Castrol website and they carry on about that specific oil being best suited for cars seeing high revs lots/beating up on the engine etc.

Just want to make sure I'm using the right oil from the outset.

[SS8_Gohan]

you are in WA, so you'll be getting more heat than some of us, but how much racing is your engine going to see? 10w60 i would consider in the extreme race category. And if it's for that purpose, you certainly wouldn't be running Castrol edge, you would be Group V at the least.

10w60 i don't believe is even a full synthetic in the Edge range.

The way i see it, if your car is mainly street driven, you want the protection from the start and when cold. That's where the damage happens (the most, relatively speaking), that's where you want the most help. I ran 0w40 Mobil 1 for a while, then 5w30 RP, and now just changed to 5w30 AMSoil. I don't want some heavy, thick, oil struggling to get around my engine when it needs lubrication the most. I want a 0w, 5w to do what it's meant to do, lubricate, when the engine needs it the most.

The greater the range, also means the greater the additives to the oil, which compromises the oil to a certain degree.

Decide based on what life your engine is going to have, and how much track time it's going to see. But either way, for the run in period, definitely go with what the builder recommends and AFTER that i would probably go with a known quantity for the old RB, which is Motul 300V - Group V, reasonably priced against Redline - and cheap insurance considering how much coin you've dropped on your build.

[cactus]

you are in WA, so you'll be getting more heat than some of us, but how much racing is your engine going to see? 10w60 i would consider in the extreme race category. And if it's for that purpose, you certainly wouldn't be running Castrol edge, you would be Group V at the least.

10w60 i don't believe is even a full synthetic in the Edge range.

The way i see it, if your car is mainly street driven, you want the protection from the start and when cold. That's where the damage happens (the most, relatively speaking), that's where you want the most help. I ran 0w40 Mobil 1 for a while, then 5w30 RP, and now just changed to 5w30 AMSoil. I don't want some heavy, thick, oil struggling to get around my engine when it needs lubrication the most. I want a 0w, 5w to do what it's meant to do, lubricate, when the engine needs it the most.

The greater the range, also means the greater the additives to the oil, which compromises the oil to a certain degree.

Decide based on what life your engine is going to have, and how much track time it's going to see. But either way, for the run in period, definitely go with what the builder recommends and AFTER that i would probably go with a known quantity for the old RB, which is Motul 300V - Group V, reasonably priced against Redline - and cheap insurance considering how much coin you've dropped on your build.

Ah I see, I see.

Yeah, it is driven on the street a lot. Probably be racing at the stip 2 times a month, and a track night once every 2 - 3 months. I do beat up on it when driving on the street though, certainly doesn't get babied. However, no matter where I drive I always allow it to get up to running temp before I drive off. Just a habbit I have as the car and running gear truly has cost me a fortune (and I love my car and look after her )

I was a major fan of Penrite oils, but I was convinced to go Castrol. Maybe I will go back, or possibly give Motul a shot.

Considering I allow the car to warm up before I drive, the lower range (i.e 5w - 10w) wouldnt really affect my decision? - I'm considering going back to Penrite HPR 10w-40. Also, is full synthetic preferrable to semi?

Edited November 17, 2009 by cactus

[Buraz]

Mate you should be using whatever your builder advised you to, Castrol Edge 10w 60 is a very good oil and I was recommended the same oil on my internaly stock RB26 by one of the best tuners/builders in Melbuorne. Was previously using Royal Purple 10w 40 and he said that it was too thin for a modified RB26 even if its street driven only which my one is. Trust your tuner/builder they have their reasons. Just recently I went to get new oil for my 2003 BMW which needs 5W 30 weight oil and I was told by a BMW technician that its way too thin for aussie conditions and recommended 5W 40 full synthetic and thats with only 60 000kms on a 4 cylinder daily, imagine what a low viscosity oil would be like in a boosted high reving engine. Just for comparison e46 BMW M3's strictly run Castrol blend which is called TWS 10W 60 similar to old Castrol Edge 10W 60 and they are street driven, so they obviously have their reason as do most engine builders/tuners. Castrol Edge 10w 60 is a very good oil and I havent heard anything but good stuff about it, so I would stick to what your engine builder recommended.

[SS8_Gohan]

funny that Bimmers don't run castrol from factory anymore...

Only Castrol i would run would be Castrol Syntec (German castrol) i know then it's a true synthetic. Castrol/Shell, etc, all have done too many dodgies with synthetics over the years.

R32 GTR from factory was recommended to run 7.5w30 - where you find 7.5 beats me! you can make your own blend i guess.

If you pop into the 'forced induction' section, you'll find a lot of big powered RB26's, 25's, whatever, running oil like Motul 300V and VERY few would be in the 10w60 - only the serious of race engines would be needing that sort of weight/viscosity. Everyone else would be in the 5w30, to 10w40 range. Both very popular.

My car is running E85, makes 287rwkw, boost at 18.5psi and runs a 5w30 that has seen a few track days. Stock internals, bolt on mods only. Despite using different brands, i keep it at 5w30, and if i did a summer track day, would probably change to 10w40.

The shear factor, quality, etc, of oils these days is so far beyond what it use to be that you'd be silly to run 10w60 on a mainly street driven car, IMO. But catcus's car sounds like it's going to see quite a bit of action, so he'll have more of a decision to make than most.

If you're really keen catcus, you can do a UOA (used oil analysis) after each change to see how things are going. Tells you how the additives in the oil are holding up, plus a whole host of other things that can give you early warning signs on the health of your engine.

My opinion, as stated already, go with tuner/builder for the run-in period - and from there, run a group V oil - i say that because it sounds like your car is going to see lots of action. Motul 300V or Redline. pick one.

and if you're still not sure, head over to 'bob is the oil guy' (google it) and you'll have every conceivable piece of info you need.

[Moodles2]

I agree on whats been said about 10w60, ive only ever read people running it on their track cars if it has serious blowby problems.

[Buraz]

I don't know whether BMW uses Castrol anymore or not, I don't use it anyway in my BMW. I'm not protecting Castrol here in any way, but it still doesn't change the fact that heaps of road cars use 10w 60, Ferrari, BMW M cars, FPV F6 recommends it, and so does my tuner and other tuners on this forum. There must be more to it than we know, so in my opinion 10w 60 weight oil sound realistic to me for street driven and track driven duties in a high performance car.