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Use a fully synthetic oil, castrol edge is a blend I'm fairly sure. Motul 8100 is good for the price, otherwise any of the other expensive fully synthetics listed in the first page will be suitable.

If it is freshly built I would personally ask the builder though.

Hey i put this oil (motul 8100) in coupla weeks back, 75$ at repco for 5L, not to rich and i reckon its great stuff, noticably smoother and maintains pressure nicer than the dirty old mobil that was in it.. considering putting it in my honda too

I bought it cause some hot chick said so in a magazine add ;)

Was it on too tight or just difficult to reach? R33 GTS-T is a bit of a pain too. Can reach it easy by hand but getting a filter wrench around it and having room to twist is another thing. I've had many a friend put their car in for service, specifically tell them to do everything but the oil...come back and find the car full of 20w50 mineral lol.

If you're interested, message me when you need more oil...I'll sell you a full synthetic 10w40 for near cost ($65) that I want you to try...I reckon you'll rate it over the Motul :)

R33 is easy as to get to

only ever do filters up hand tight and youll never have a prob getting em off, if you cant get it off, get some bigger muscles, :D

the 8100 is 5-40, from wht i figure it will thickin up pretty quik, plus my engines stock so not under much stress on start up, for hi-po engine would definately use thicker

Edited by doozooby
Why does everyone say this?

Im far from an expert ,but i figured that with the extra strain/stress caused by higher compressions and spring rates etc, that a thicker oil would be benefecial at startup..Seems to make sense really..

And from what ive read and heard people with hi-po engines appear to be using heaveir oils.

I guess its all dependant on usage to street, drift, drag etc i would consider to be the biggest contribute to what oil i would use, as a rule i generally stick to the viscosity suggested in user manuals for daily cars which is usually somewhere between 0-40. Dependant on enigine age and condition as well

but i use cheapo 20-60 in my ute with 350000kms on it, 15$ for 6L and a free filter at repco..been using this for over 150000 without a problem, i just let it warm up a bit longer in the morning is all, and top it up once a week

One thing i have noticed cheaper oils will not last as good as a good synthetic, they will burn away, ive had mobil 1 last 50000 and barely needed a top up, however cheap oils will burn and should be checked regularly if you do this they are fine..

Edited by doozooby
Im far from an expert ,but i figured that with the extra strain/stress caused by higher compressions and spring rates etc, that a thicker oil would be benefecial at startup..Seems to make sense really..

And from what ive read and heard people with hi-po engines appear to be using heaveir oils.

Hold on, it seems to make sense why? you didn't give a single reason. Yes some people do use heavier oils but with absolutely no good reason, it is just people propagating 'thick oil is better' and then everyone starts doing it.

When you start up a motor EVERY SINGLE oil is too thick. Even using a 0w-10 oil it will be too thick at start up and will cause extra wear. You should be using the thinnest oil your motor can tolerate as this will give the best performance and cause the least wear.

I don't mean to have a go at you, but if you are 'far from an expert' perhaps you should refrain from giving advice as it just propagates misinformation.

Thing with high powered engines is that they usually have tighter tollerences so you would be able to use thinner oils

Exactly, the better your motor (tighter tolerances) is built the THINNER the oil you should be using. Thinner oil will always lubricate a motor better, the ONLY reason to use thicker oil is in extreme hot temperatures or if you have an old motor with leaky seals or poor tolerances.

Edited by Rolls
Hold on, it seems to make sense why? you didn't give a single reason. Yes some people do use heavier oils but with absolutely no good reason, it is just people propagating 'thick oil is better' and then everyone starts doing it.

When you start up a motor EVERY SINGLE oil is too thick. Even using a 0w-10 oil it will be too thick at start up and will cause extra wear. You should be using the thinnest oil your motor can tolerate as this will give the best performance and cause the least wear.

I don't mean to have a go at you, but if you are 'far from an expert' perhaps you should refrain from giving advice as it just propagates misinformation.

Exactly, the better your motor (tighter tolerances) is built the THINNER the oil you should be using. Thinner oil will always lubricate a motor better, the ONLY reason to use thicker oil is in extreme hot temperatures or if you have an old motor with leaky seals or poor tolerances.

I don't mean any disrespect mate, but are you an expert on oil? And can you give any more reasons to why thinner is better, than it flows better and therefore protects better? As I have mentioned a few times in this tread, that different cars/engines need different weight oils, as mentioned there are some cars from factory running very thick oils and some very thin ones. There is more to it than the theory many go by that thinner is always better and protects better on start up etc. perhaps olive oil is best for start up and protection if every oil is too thick.

I suggest that many of you that just go here to give advice without much knowledge, call around or visit as I have and talk to some people that know their stuff, build engines, tune etc and then go by that. I'm not suggesting anything nor did I in any of my other posts, as every engine and car can require different weight oil, wether it be new from factory or built they can all require different weight and can't always apply the same theory to everything, and tell someone who was recommended a certain weight oil by their engine builder not to use it. As I said there are many factors determining what weight oil is required.

Cheers

The weight that is suggested by the factory is dependant on the tolerances the motor is built to along with what additives they have, eg a diesel needs highpressure additives due to the high compression rations etc they run. Thinner is almost always better in terms of performance and wear as thinner means less friction hence less wear. The only time thicker is recommended is due to high operating temperatures or poor tolerances (sometimes big 10L diesels have large tolerances so they last longer and due to their design).

Once again I didn't mean to have a go at you but you did not give a single technical reason why thicker oils are beneficial, if you can't even attempt to do this then why should anyone listen to you?

Regarding me being an expert on oil, no I am not but I have studied engineering and that covered thermo fluids and many other mathematical engineering topics that cover things like this so I would say I have a fairly grounded understanding of how oils work.

There are many many reasons why thinner oil is better at start up, I have posted several detailed links in this thread about the technical details that I suggest you read.

Here is one of them, I'm sure if you dig through the thread you will find the other links I posted.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Cheers :D

Edited by Rolls

Hey sorry guys..like i said im no expert so please dont take my thoughts as gospel..or even advice...

They are simply my thoughts on the subject of oils..

Correct me if im wrong, but often with hipo engines if its to tight things tend to break easily.Especially on cars with forced induction. So a loose engine is a good engine, which is why thicker oil would be used, plus to tolerate high temps..

Ok on a new engine this maybe different..there is lots of variables as miran stated...

As a general rule of thumb on normal petrol car engines.

Most new cars i see recommend something between a 0-40 synthetic, as an engine gets older i would thicken the oil to a 10-50 maybe preferably synthetic but not a necessity if changed regularly, and a tired engine will be burning oil no doubt so any oil will be fine as you will be topping it up regularly anyway..cheap oils usually come in 20-60..

A hipo engine will tend to show the traits of an older engine much earlier, where a factory engine may start tiring at 100,000km, a hipo will be in this condition after 10,000 due to the stress it is under, once again thicker oils

I asked the guy in repco what he new about oil the other day, he said it was slippery..lol..(smart ass)

I also asked if he had wheel nuts, he said what are they for, i said to hold the wheels on.. :D

He suggested a few diff oils, but i bought the Motul 8100 cause its what i wanted, the hot chick said so and i was getting confused..

I was happy with my choice and would recommend it

Im not trying to be too technical i am generalising only..

If this thread is for experts only i will go talk oil in the wasteland :)

I am here to discuss and learn not to preach....

Hey sorry guys..like i said im no expert so please dont take my thoughts as gospel..or even advice...

They are simply my thoughts on the subject of oils..

Correct me if im wrong, but often with hipo engines if its to tight things tend to break easily.Especially on cars with forced induction. So a loose engine is a good engine, which is why thicker oil would be used, plus to tolerate high temps..

Ok on a new engine this maybe different..there is lots of variables as miran stated...

As a general rule of thumb on normal petrol car engines.

Most new cars i see recommend something between a 0-40 synthetic, as an engine gets older i would thicken the oil to a 10-50 maybe preferably synthetic but not a necessity if changed regularly, and a tired engine will be burning oil no doubt so any oil will be fine as you will be topping it up regularly anyway..cheap oils usually come in 20-60..

A hipo engine will tend to show the traits of an older engine much earlier, where a factory engine may start tiring at 100,000km, a hipo will be in this condition after 10,000 due to the stress it is under, once again thicker oils

I asked the guy in repco what he new about oil the other day, he said it was slippery..lol..(smart ass)

I also asked if he had wheel nuts, he said what are they for, i said to hold the wheels on.. :P

He suggested a few diff oils, but i bought the Motul 8100 cause its what i wanted, the hot chick said so and i was getting confused..

I was happy with my choice and would recommend it

Im not trying to be too technical i am generalising only..

If this thread is for experts only i will go talk oil in the wasteland :)

I am here to discuss and learn not to preach....

Thats right mate, built engines are generally built looser to cope with more punishment but won't lats as long. It depends on what clearances are used and other specs during the build, thats why the engine builder will recommend what oil to use to give it best protection in most cases thicker oil, and this is also the reason why they dont have to be run in the same way as a standard daily road car, read Forced Induction section to clarify this or call a reputable workshop or even pm some engine builders/tuners on this site there are many great ones. As with new/everyday cars they are built tighter as you said, to last longer, give better fuel economy and protection as well as pollution etc. It all depends on how the engine is built and to what specs. As one of my previous posts I used an example of BMW and how their M range of cars particulary the E46 M3 strictly use a special blend of 10W60 and nothing else, whether you track it or only street drive it, surely they wouldn't invest this much money into special blend oil, thats not going to give best protection to their top of the range car and give warranty with it. While their other 6 cylinder cars, use 5W30 blend.

Oil that might be too thin for one particular car might be too thick for another, it depends as I keep saying to how they are built and to what specs, its not as simple as people make it seem there is more to it. I'm not saying that thicker is better than thinner oil or the other way around as some people think, it really depends on what the particular engine requires thats what I'm trying to get at and this is the reason I haven't posted any technical reasons, it isn't a debate about thicker vs thinner oil its what a particular engine requires depending on different factors, its as simple as that. I'm not an engineer or an oil expert, but I can read and talk to people and learn along the way to have a knowledge about this topic.

Cheers

I originally only came here to mention i was happy with the Motul oil, funny how things snowball..

Oil viscosity is relatively simple once you know what the numbers mean, but you also have to know what the engine in question will prefer, this mainly comes from experience. The only way you could really tell if one oil is better than another is to test them all and i dont have the time, the money or the care for that..I did my research mainly here and Motul seems pretty popular with the nissan crowd (and the import crowd in general) and i only wanted to change my oil once. Now it starts easier, runs smoother and revs more freely, not a huge difference but i notice it. On another note the Castrol edge, which i wouldnt even consider for my nissan, seems to be very popular with the v8 crowd!

Its all about the variables, you cant teach these, you can only discuss and let each person make there own choice.

Some oils are better than others to the trained eye, but any oil is good oil, the main thing is that your engine has oil in it.

Guy i know just stuffed a good engine, he bought the car brand new, gave it an oil change at 40k with cheap oil that burnt out (Ausfield i believe).. Because he never checked the oil and had so much crap on his dash that he didn't see the oil light come on, he ran it dry and did a bearing or something somewhere. Still runs but sounds like shit. Unlucky for him it was just out of its 100k warranty, although i doubt they would have honoured it with no service history.

so i changed the oil and i know that a lot of skyline owners are not going 2 like this but i put in some valvoline oil 0w40 full synthetic because im to cheap to get Motul and i do regular oil changes any way. i guess we will see how it goes so far so good i done about 20km on it and it seems as good as the castrol edge.

i recommend K&N oil filters because they are most likely better then the OEM one and also they are super easy to put in and take out because the have a nut thing on them so u can take it of with a normal socket set (no specialty tool needed)

  • 2 weeks later...

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