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If you can't find it anywhere up there, give me a yell and I'll post some up to you. I'm a Gulf Western distributor but I sell Sougi at close to cost price for enthusiasts because I'm a good guy and I write it off as a marketing exercise lol. Don't gauge it by the cheapo mineral 20w50 that Autobarn like to loss lead for $10 a bottle - that stuff is designed for running in engines / oil flushing and servvicing pre-90's shitheaps that burn through oil, just like every other 20w50 mineral on the market.

Where can we find you in Victoria to get our hands on some 10W 40?

Also, does using an ethanol based fuel seem to make much difference to oil thinning in your experience?

cheers,

If you understand the reasons why it gets sold for so cheap then it starts to make alot more sense. Anyone who sells XMP for $10 is making a loss on it because that's less than what we buy it for as distributors, hence the limit of 1 or 2 per customer. And hence why we go out and buy the stuff from them when the retail giants have their loss leading sales lol.

They used to do the same thing with Castrol and Valvoline, still do from time to time. Also XMP is a 4 litre container - after you add a litre and go by the RRP it works out to be about the same price as the rest of the 20w50 mineral packaged oils. As I said before it's a very basic oil like the rest of the 20w50 minerals and I wouldn't use it in anything but older vehicles that burn through it or as a run-in/flushing oil.

This is a problem I've taken up with GW before as I think it cheapens their brand image big time (thus my business suffers) and they've never admitted this marketing mistake to me. They've "told off" the retail giants for doing it excessively but at the same time I can't see them knocking back an order for 200 pallets worth of oil. For what it's worth oil companies don't really care about retail sales because they are more a marketing exercise and probably make up less than 5% of their sales. But that said, being a marketing exercise you would think they would give more of a shit about what it is doing to the company image during loss lead promotion!

If you're happy with the oil you're using then keep using it I say. No reason to change unless you can find something that does the same for a better price.

Eastern suburbs of Melbourne mate, PM for exact address.

What do you mean by oil thinning? In relation to changes in engine temperature as per using a different fuel?

PM sent thanks, by thinning I mean fuel getting by the rings or valve seals into the oil.

Wouldn't be able to answer that one unfortunately, I don't know a great deal about ethanol fuels. If it's a richer mix, the extra supply of fuel to the cylinders might make a difference? Probably negligible though...

my engine has done about 170,000+km, and is also getting tired. what would be a good oil to use?

i was using motul turbolight 10w40, but have been advised to look fo something thicker.

any opinions?

Cost effective but nice=Penritre HPR10 its a 10x50 semi synth @ about $39.95 5lt.

Costly and nice Royal Purple 15x50 probably about $$95.00 5lt. (I think.)

+of course $12.00 for an OE filter.

:ermm:

my engine has done about 170,000+km, and is also getting tired. what would be a good oil to use?

i was using motul turbolight 10w40, but have been advised to look fo something thicker.

any opinions?

Cost effective but nice=Penritre HPR10 its a 10x50 semi synth @ about $39.95 5lt.

Costly and nice Royal Purple 15x50 probably about $$95.00 5lt. (I think.)

+of course $12.00 for an OE filter.

:ermm:

Agree with above, one of them...it's probably about time you switched a 50 grade. Although you could try running a 40 and judge it by how much smoke (if any) you blow.

meh it's going to take a lot to convince me that GW is anything other than cheap rubbish being sold at $10-30 a bottle! Forum posts alone aren't going to change me from using Motul 8100 5w40.

As birds has stated, The cheap GW oil is what it is and is priced accordingly. The GW Sougi on the other hand is every bit the same as Motul but considerably cheaper. I will certainly use it again.

Cost effective but nice=Penritre HPR10 its a 10x50 semi synth @ about $39.95 5lt.

Costly and nice Royal Purple 15x50 probably about $$95.00 5lt. (I think.)

+of course $12.00 for an OE filter.

:blink:

+1 for penritre HPR10 semi synth. i have done about 2000km so far on it and it seems to be doing real good better than castrol edge

Hmm, about as confused as one can get on oils. Car had Havoline in it originally. No idea what kind. So put in some Penrite HPR10 semi with the plan to then go fully synthetic next change. Engine has 90k on it. Gut feeling is the HPR10 might not be the best oil for this engine, but then again I don't know what is the "best" or better one to choose.

- Motul seems a winner by many peoples postings. I gather it's either the 300V or the 8100 (not sure what version of this is the one to use).

- Royal Purple has some fans as well.

- GW Sougi. This sounds like a good oil, but don't think anyone sells it on the Gold Coast.

As far as weights go, hmmm 10w40w or 0w40w or 5w40w? I understand the first number is for cold, the second is for hot temperatures, but still confused here.

Those 3 synth choices have fans. Also seen people mention Mobil 1. Penrite of course has some synth stuff as well as Nulon.

Price is not the main consideration, but then again it's certainly an important one. Like if one is close the other in prices, then most people would pay that little bit extra for it.

I'm confused big time on this however. I've seen Mobil 1 for $60, Motul for $110, Penrite for $70 and so on. I know oils are like women, everyone's different :( , but hoping to get a clearer understanding of all this, and ultimately what one to purchase.

Hey dude, I just emptied out my turbo light 4100 motul after 2,500ks and put in 10/40 300v. Awesome oil, unfortunately becauase of my oil coolers and re-postitioned oil filter + lines I used over 5liters so I had to buy 6 litres of it. Cost about $140. However I have noticed already how big a difference the 300v makes, beautiful oil - could not be happier. I might have used royal purple but after driving with 300v, I dont think I could use anything else. I was going to use Fuchs oil but for the right spec it was going to cost $300....and thats on my company account and we purchase 20 thousand dollars worth of their oil every week.

Stick to 10w40 mate it's a good grade for your engine and mileage. If you want to understand the finer details behind it you can read my posts a page or two back explaining the basics of what each grade means. As for which brand, you're quite correct it's all about different tastes. As you've seen, there isn't one oil that everyone has settled on. Motul seems to have the most fans on here, although this seems to be largely a Skyline based word of mouth which is based on the factory manual recommendation combined with the fact it's actually a good oil. You won't go wrong with any of the brands you listed. Really, full synthetic + 10w40 = generally a win. From there's it's just a matter of experimenting with what works best for you. Don't fear that you'll go wrong, you won't damage your engine as long as you service it at regular intervals. So roll a dice, pick one, stick with the other and try another one next time.

It'll be fine until the next service interval, but I'd swap it out for a 40 grade after that unless you've had your engine rebuilt to tight tolerances. Producing that much power you might even want to consider a 50 grade.

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