Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Brake Problem After Conversion - Pedal Goes To Floor

gts25
 Share

Recommended Posts

gts25 Rising Star

gts25

Posted
Posted

Hi Guy's,

Currently having a problem with my R32.

I have completed a conversion from 4 stud hubs and non-turbo brakes to 5-stud and GTS-T brakes.

I have done the following:

- replaced front hubs, fitted new rotors, pads and calipers. Replaced brake fluid with new DOT 3 fluid. Bleed the brakes

and beeded in the brakes with no problems. Pedal travel felt fine and brakes pulled up with no problems

- I then replaced the rear hubs, rotors, pad and calipers. Replaced brake fluid and bleed brakes. Now when pressing pedal, takes a few pumps to build up pressure. When car is running the pedal goes to floor and I cannot build up pressure with the pedal.

Found out that I bleed the brakes in the wrong order and bled them again - RL, RR, FL. FR. Bleeding the brakes the second time did remove some more air and I am confident that there is no air is left in the lines. At no stage was the brake fluid resoviour emptied completely.

Is it possible that in pushing the pedal completely to floor when bleeding could I have possibly damaged the seals in the master cylinder causing loss of pressure or could it be that I still have air in the line?

Thanks in advance

Jason

br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

I would think u still got air in your brakes lines...

I always push my pedal all the way down to bleed the brakes, and nvr had any problems.

Give it another bleed and see how it goes...

twogtrs Newbie

twogtrs

Posted
Posted

suggest you check your resiviour

levels and make sure it is not dropping if it is then you have a leak and need to search for it. best bet start at the rear since this is where the last work was done. However if there is no drop it the levels then there must still be air in the line or air getting in so check all the lines for tightness and bleed again

hope it helps

ps why dot 3 and not dot 4

Hi Guy's,

Currently having a problem with my R32.

I have completed a conversion from 4 stud hubs and non-turbo brakes to 5-stud and GTS-T brakes.

I have done the following:

- replaced front hubs, fitted new rotors, pads and calipers. Replaced brake fluid with new DOT 3 fluid. Bleed the brakes

and beeded in the brakes with no problems. Pedal travel felt fine and brakes pulled up with no problems

- I then replaced the rear hubs, rotors, pad and calipers. Replaced brake fluid and bleed brakes. Now when pressing pedal, takes a few pumps to build up pressure. When car is running the pedal goes to floor and I cannot build up pressure with the pedal.

Found out that I bleed the brakes in the wrong order and bled them again - RL, RR, FL. FR. Bleeding the brakes the second time did remove some more air and I am confident that there is no air is left in the lines. At no stage was the brake fluid resoviour emptied completely.

Is it possible that in pushing the pedal completely to floor when bleeding could I have possibly damaged the seals in the master cylinder causing loss of pressure or could it be that I still have air in the line?

Thanks in advance

Jason

gts25 Rising Star

gts25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for your thoughts guy's

I will check if fluid levels drop but I believe it does not and we have checked for leaks.

Could we be bleeding incorrectly? We used the method described in the workshop manual - open bleeder nipple, attach clear hose immersed in jar of fluid, press brake pedal and release, wait 3 secs, repeat until most of reservoir is empty, top up reservoir. We are only getting fluid coming through the hose and no air

I have used DOT3 as this is recommended for use on the top of the reservoir cap

Jason

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Did you bleed the master cylinder?

I normally have some pressure in the system before opening the bleed nipple. Hold the pedal down while re-tighten bleed nipple, then let pedal up.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you should be doing:

hold pedal down. open nipple. pedal goes to floor. keep it on the floor, close bleed nipple. now let the pedal up. pump it up a bit and hold it, open bleed nipple, pedal goes to the floor. close bleed nipple, let the pedal up. etc etc. don't be just pumping away at it with the bleend nipple open as each pump will suck up some air.

Trav33 Mentor

Trav33

Posted
Posted
you should be doing:

hold pedal down. open nipple. pedal goes to floor. keep it on the floor, close bleed nipple. now let the pedal up. pump it up a bit and hold it, open bleed nipple, pedal goes to the floor. close bleed nipple, let the pedal up. etc etc. don't be just pumping away at it with the bleend nipple open as each pump will suck up some air.

I think its actually more like

pump pedal about 3-4 times to build up pressure, and hold pressure on the pedal.

second person opens bleed nipple, when the pedal just about hits the floor, #2 person yells "floor".

#1 person tightens nipple and yells "pump",

and repeat the process x number of times.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

once you have a tube full of brake fluid you aren't really going to suck anything back in but brake fluid if you have a decent seal. Thats why the manual states to immerse the end of the tube in a jar of fluid. Once you pump the pedal twice you've blown all the air out of the tube and you are at worst sucking up a bit of old fluid. By the time you flush all the new stuff through until you are seeing clean fluid you are only sucking back clean fluid. Not saying to try it but in theory you could bleed your own brakes this way with no one opening and closing the nipple.

Everyone's got their own variation on it. Whats the point of pumping the pedal to get pressure in the system btw? as soon as you crack the bleed nipple it's gone and so when you depress the pedal it's just like you didn't pump it at all.

I do a bit of a mix of both. It works, i'm sure all of the other ways you guys do it work as well. It's not rocket science to get the bubbles out if the system is up to scratch.

Back to the OP's concerns, has anyone considered the master cylinder may not be up to the task of bigger calipers all round? I could be totally wrong but i have no idea of the relative sizes of the cylinders.

gts25 Rising Star

gts25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Guy's,

Good news - I have fixed the problem - almost embrassed to say what it was. I installed the rear calipers on the wrong sides

(left on right side of car, right on left side of car). Whilst the calipers are exactly the same and fit on either side regardless, installing them on the incorrect side puts the bleeder valve on the bottom of the caliper. The bleeder valve needs to be at the top of the caliper assembly. Although I have bleed the calipers numerous times a pocket of air was being forced to the top of the caliper...

Once installed the correct way round and bleed again, pedal is back to normal - wohoo :)

Btw - existing master cylinder and booster seem up to the task for the larger calipers

Thanks guy's for all your suggestions

Jason

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...