Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking to upgrade my turbo to something that has a higher power output than the stock RB20 turbo. I track/AutoX/Solosprint my car, so I am trying to find the best turbo for that application.

I am aiming for 200-220rwkw, but don't want it to hit full boost (.8-1 bar) after 3500rpm. Currently my car hits 1 bar at 2900, with an FMIC and cat back 3'' exhaust.

I drove a GTR at autoX yesterday which is fully built with gt2860's and an R34 N1 block. The spool comes on WAY to late to even be competitive at the track.

So basically I am looking for the best trade-off between quick spool and power output. Obviously I will have supporting fuel/exhuast/ecu/internal mods for the turbo. I am just looking for turbo information, nothing else.

The one turbo that stands out atm is the HKS Gt2530 due to it's "bolt-on" feature and which apparently can hit 210ish rwkw. Does anyone run this turbo, and what kind of spool am I looking at with one.

Are there any other suggestions for an internally gated turbo for an RB20DET (HCR32). If I HAVE to I can purchase a new manifold, but if it's bolt on all the better.

Thanks!

Stock R33 turbo meets the spool up requirements, but not the 220rwkw requirement.

GT2510 is one I've heard of people using to make around the 215rwkw with near stock spool time. I think they are getting rare though.

then you get on to hiflows.

Sydneykid from these forums had a GCG hiflow on his RB20 track car for a while making 220rwkw on sane boost levels and I think the spool up time that you refer to.

that was a few years back though.

I think the price of a GCG ball bearing hiflow is around the $2K mark. and obviously will bolt straight back on to where it came off.

I'm not too sure on the other suppliers of turbo's and what they are like.

I guess maybe something in the GT28 type catagory would be suitable (but would require a manifold adapter or new manifold)

CEF11E - had an RB20 making 240rwkw using a cheap non ball bearing SLIDE PERFORMANCE HIFLOW turbo. but mas boost of 19psi was reached at 4100rpm if I remember.

he might have a dyno result in the dyno results thread.

I'd recommend a HKS2530 or a HKS2535, HKS2530 if your wanting a quicker spool up

HKS2510 will probably make the 210rwkw or so that your after but it will be on very high boost, I'd probably got a little bigger turbo, slightly lower boost and gain a bit more up top, HKS2530 would be my choice

That being said, I'm currently running a HKS2535 with all supporting mods on 21psi at the moment on my internally standard RB20 and it doesn't feel laggy at all.. but I'm running cam gears as well with very mild adjustments

It boosts prety quick, revs hard to redline and doesn't feel laggy at all

Stock R33 turbo meets the spool up requirements, but not the 220rwkw requirement.

GT2510 is one I've heard of people using to make around the 215rwkw with near stock spool time. I think they are getting rare though.

then you get on to hiflows.

Sydneykid from these forums had a GCG hiflow on his RB20 track car for a while making 220rwkw on sane boost levels and I think the spool up time that you refer to.

that was a few years back though.

I think the price of a GCG ball bearing hiflow is around the $2K mark. and obviously will bolt straight back on to where it came off.

I'm not too sure on the other suppliers of turbo's and what they are like.

I guess maybe something in the GT28 type catagory would be suitable (but would require a manifold adapter or new manifold)

CEF11E - had an RB20 making 240rwkw using a cheap non ball bearing SLIDE PERFORMANCE HIFLOW turbo. but mas boost of 19psi was reached at 4100rpm if I remember.

he might have a dyno result in the dyno results thread.

gcg high flow looking at 5000rpm before you 5000rpm... laggy buggers

as said rb25 turbo will get you full boost around 3500 and around 200rwkw on 15psi

hks 2530 will get 200-230rwkw on 15-20psi with similar response

dont go a 2535, they dont seem to suit a rb20

I got a quote from Pep's auto parts. they sell GCG stuff. quoted $1100 for a highflow

of my rb25 turbo. The GCG rep who works at Pep's said it's machining of the housings/new

ball bearing cartridge and blades everything except the oil & water lines.and will make 230-250rwkw

on rb20(so he said)

Sounds too cheap...any thoughts?

doubt away. dyno graphs say im right

If your dyno graph shows no boost until 5000rpm on your GCG rb25 hiflow on an RB20, then you have tune problems.

look at all the other rb20 dyno results in the dyno thread.

there are much bigger turbo's and even r33 hiflow turbo's which produce numbers way before 5000rpm.

Just a couple I can remember that are "similar" to an R33 hiflow on an RB20..

Roy - TD05 20G-8cm.

makes over 1 bar boost by 4500rpm.

CEF11E - Slide hiflow (similar to GCG but non BB)

19 psi, 4200rpm

makes 240rwkw

Someone, sooner or later is going to have to pull their fingers our and grab a new HKS GT-SS for their RB20DET, i have rad they are listed as for sale in T3 flange, but i have not actually seen one for sale on yahoo or perfectrun.

Surely he best option for what you are needing. Provide good power through basically std sized wheels, just with more modern aerodynamics and steel wheels permitting a bit more boost up the thing.

gcg high flow looking at 5000rpm before you 5000rpm... laggy buggers

I had one on my RB20 which was bloody tired (popped a few weeks later, not turbo related) and it still made decent power and was quite responsive. I think the thing should've made more power if the engine wasn't on it's last legs too. But still, 220rwkw on 1.4bar, not too shabby.

I'd love to see your dyno sheet of it being a pig, because mine completely disagrees with that.

Just the usual mods, nothing special, just turned the boost up lots :P

GCGvsRB25.jpg

Note: That's an RB25 turbo, not "standard" as the sheet indicates.

Boost starts ramping up 400rpm later and ramps up at the same rate. It started making more power than the stock RB25 turbo at 3600rpm and made full boost of 1.4bar (20psi) a smidge after that. 1bar came at around 3300-3400rpm.

Edited by salad

Trust T518Z could be worth a look. I have one on my SR20 silvia and I love it. great little turbo. not sure how it would go on the RB20 but it can't be too bad.

I woudl strongly suggest that when looking at turbo setups on RB20s forget where they make boost. Look at the torque curves and look at road speed not rpm as the indicator of when its making power. Forget boost and forget rpm.

Even when they are makign boost way earlier they are nto really making any more power then other setups that walk away over 4,400rpm

yeah I can back that up. like your car troy, makes boost faily early but feels very breathless down low. the SR on the other hand has similar spool up but feels much meetier down low. so you are right, it's not worth getting too hung up on where it makes boost, look at where it makes power and torque.

it should be said though, once up and running your 20 with the TD absolutely spanks the SR with the T518Z.

I woudl strongly suggest that when looking at turbo setups on RB20s forget where they make boost. Look at the torque curves and look at road speed not rpm as the indicator of when its making power. Forget boost and forget rpm.

yes that is valid, except looking at torque curves vs rpm is just as good a comparison as road speed imo.

yeah I can back that up. like your car troy, makes boost faily early but feels very breathless down low. the SR on the other hand has similar spool up but feels much meetier down low.

i would have thought there's not much point comparing a sr to rb20, the longer stroke will allways give much better low end grunt for the same boost i would have thought

Edited by norwest_rumbler

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...