Jump to content
SAU Community

Flattest Torque Curve?

rtune

By rtune,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted

What mods support the widest, flattest torque curve on an rb 2.6 tt?

Or to put things another way, what mods tend to combat torque roll off

after it peaks at 4600 or so?

there is a long way from 4500 rpm to 8200 rpm, after all, and I see most

dyno plots torque rolls off quite dramatically.

I'm not asking from the start point of any specific setup, except I already

know that increasing displacement and dialing back boost is the easiest solution,

wondering what tricks there are for 2.6

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/226278-flattest-torque-curve/
Share on other sites
rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it doesnt drop off.. it actually continues to climb lol

stock cams.. i think its turbo selection :P

thats a flat torque curve as far as it goes at least -- did you figure out what you have that isn't stock yet?

in particular, what your turbo is? maybe I didn't look through your post history well enough but

you don't seem very sure!

Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted

well i measured the turbo up and the comp wasnt stock.. measured 66mm instead of i think theyre suppose to be 61??

so its slightly larger.. the rear end was still ceramic.. and hence the rebuild..

the rest is stock.. ive got the motor in pieces now.. stock everything else :)

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
img015416j0007mu6.jpg

have a looksi :)

problem is the way those dyno's guesstimate torque, they really dont give an accurate idea... lots of wheelspin though too so i would probably a bit more up top. Nice power for an unknown owner you must have been very happy :down: it not often you get more than you expect.

Russells is pretty much accross the way and does great work especially on V8's. I've noticed average thier dyno reads a bit high compared to mine and Dyno Dynamics so i reckon R33 GTR turbos would be a good guess at whats on there.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

the power curve looks a bit funny to me. quite a slow climb. for instance my GTR just tuned the other week. at 4500rpm you are at 175kw i'm at 220. at 5,000rpm it makes 250kw, yours is on 200. at 5500 you're on ~230 i'm on ~280 and yet we both make about the same peak. but basically 50kw more everywhere else.

I don't have my torque curve handy but it should be pretty good. you can see this style of 300kw has lots of area under the curve which makes it fast on the street (and the track too).

post-3621-1214963736_thumb.jpg

Bumblebee Experienced

Bumblebee

Posted
Posted

odd i know.. my turbos were very laggy :D but they had a lot uptop.. if only they did the turbos properly..

instead of just puttin a large comp wheel on it, they shouldve put steel wheels too, then it woulda seen well over 300awkw easily

it was only on 15psi :P i ran 18psi most days till they died

Ryan1200 Proficient

Ryan1200

Posted
Posted (edited)
Gotta love dyno dynamics "adjustment" FTW

This was done in shootout mode actually. The corrections are on this sheet so no funny bussiness..

Have since done somemore tunning on a brand new 4wd dyno with some vp109.. 545awhp was my 98 tune... It has run hi 10's but with crappy 60ft 1.99 then got booted cause the lack of safety gear..106mph 1/8 133 terminal so if i can get 60ft times down times should come down a far way. The car is as nissan sold it so theres nothing removed as yet.. As i said 2530's ftw.. :sick:

post-20010-1215001084_thumb.jpg

post-20010-1215001765_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ryan1200
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

545rwhp on realistic fuel is more like it.

Posting a graph on race fuel/NOS whatever, without telling people that doesn't help, nor did it add anything to the thread .. plus the IT temp of 50 degree's is adding some nice correction to it all :whistling:

People just assume PULP, as that's what you get from a servo.

Running 109 octane is a TOTALLY different kettle of fish

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...