Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been using the whiteline bars, but I'm thinking about either switching back to standard ones, or possibly some cusco ones. the whiteline ones are pretty heavy and I wasn't quite 100% keen on the fitment. not sure on the size of the stockies, someone out there must know!

Standard GTR bars are hollow, so outside diameter is a meaningless comparison without allowing for the wall thickness. We run 24 mm solid front swaybars on R32GTR's with 5 settings of adjustment per arm in combination with a 24 mm rear swaybar with 3 setting of adjustment on the rear. I would always recommend using the standard front drop links on a road car. For a track car we use an adjustable length spherical link kit as it enables us to corner weight the car without preloading the swaybars. As always spherical bearings are a serviceable item, even the dust boot covered ones need greasing regularly and change the sphericals usually once per seqason of racing.

Link to the R32GTR Group Buy including swaybars;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87521

Cheers

Gary

Standard GTR bars are hollow, so outside diameter is a meaningless comparison without allowing for the wall thickness.

yes but I am still interested in what the standard diameter is...

We run 24 mm solid front swaybars on R32GTR's with 5 settings of adjustment per arm in combination with a 24 mm rear swaybar with 3 setting of adjustment on the rear.

That's fine, but you would still have to know the relative stiffness increase over the standard bar. any logical person would say, ok here i have a standard swaybar (be it hollow or solid) - what is my zero setting - ie the factory n/mm rate? Then from there, you can say a solid bar of Xmm will have a n/mm rate, which is XYZ % increase over the factory rate. You wouldn't just throw the stock one in the bin and "suck it and see" by throwing on different size sold bars until you get it right. That's not logical.

I would always recommend using the standard front drop links on a road car. For a track car we use an adjustable length spherical link kit as it enables us to corner weight the car without preloading the swaybars. As always spherical bearings are a serviceable item, even the dust boot covered ones need greasing regularly and change the sphericals usually once per seqason of racing.

Standard drop links may be fine, but my issue is that my "Group Buy" bar is contacting my front drive shafts, and I've been told by the suspension shop that I need longer links. I haven't seen where this is contacting, but as the suspension shop installed it all, i am inclined to believe that it's been done properly. Now seeing that it's unlikely that the bar has been installed incorrectly, the two scenarios are

1. the bar is faulty in design/manufacture or both

2. the factory drop links are not appropriate for this bar, and the bar should come with appropriate links

Has anyone else had this same issue?

Hillbilly! You should have rang me... Odds are it will be the links and where they have set the bar to. My issue with sump damage seems to have been link related. I used the std ones which were too short. Even with longer ones i dont think i can practically use the softest settings are the resulting angle is a little too extreme. I need to grab some longer ones and that should fix my headache. Maybe we grab 4 or so.

Who is doing the work, Centreline, Techsport? Should not be that difficult to test the difference in swaybars, they may even have soem std ones laying around

The standard R32GTR hollow swaybar is equivalent to a 20.5mm sold bar, so a 22 mm bar is an effective rate increase of 30%, a 24 mm bar is 85%. That's not allowing for the vertical blading of the arms on the adjustable bars which adds further to the rate as it reduces the flex in the arms. On the anti roll rate comparitor the 24 mm adjustable bar gives around 90%, 96% and 103% increases over the standard bar. Keeping in mind that the standard anti roll rate on the front of an R32GTR is not too bad, however the rear anti roll rate is grossly underdone, hence why the increases there are more than double the front.

Obviously with an adjustable (bladed) bar of larger than standard diameter the extra material has to go somewhere, in one or more of the 4 directions (up/down /and/or forward/backward). We choose the direction least likely to cause interference. You are the first person I know of to have an issues on an R32GTR with driveshaft contact. We make over 300 R32 front swaybars a year, so it is obvioulsy a pretty rare occurance. Looking at the possible issues, my guesses would be more front end geometry (caster/camber) than the average and/or the ride height is perhaps lower.

Whatever modifications the swaybar needs we can do, just get Ralph (Trutrack) to give me a call and we will work through the solution.

Cheers

Gary

I had this information all written down but unfortunately it is not to hand. I will try & dig it up.

From memory the Cusco sway bar I bought for the rear of my R32 R was 20% stiffer than the equivalent Whiteline bar. For the front the disparity was greater.

When you look at the lever arm component the Cusco pickup point is matched to the inner of the two Whiteline drilled holes (Or the middle one if you have the extra drill hole). The Cusco bar is also quite a bit lighter. The Cusco pickup point (for the lever arm) is the same as the stock item. Also the bar geometry ie bends etc are very similar.

I didn't buy a front Cusco bar because my Whiteline on is still set on soft, whereas the rear was on hard (Although I could have drilled more holes).

If you have inner & outer diameters you can compare bar stiffnesses by raising the diameter to the 4th power.

So eg a 22mm bar compared to a 20.5.

20 raised to the 4th power divided by 20.5 raised tot he fourth power = 234256/176610 = 130%

ie 30% stiffer.

If the bar is hollow you subtract the inner diameter to the fourth before you do the division.

Interestingly (Or not :thumbsup:) the Cusco items have a welded on end connection (The bars are hollow). So I am unsure as to what they are made from. I haven't had sufficient enthusiasm to remove the bar & bring it to work to find out. The % carbon in the steel is the tell tale - higher carbon in this application would indicate spring steel.

Edited by djr81
Standard drop links may be fine, but my issue is that my "Group Buy" bar is contacting my front drive shafts,

Has anyone else had this same issue?

Yes, my group buy/whiteline front bar touched the driveshafts (just, it fit but rubbed). After a tickle with the grinder all was good.

  • 1 month later...

Ok, have semi sorted some new bars...but regarding the ARC ones. From looking at the diameters i suspect they are solid, not hollow? Does anyone know what the std GTST and GTR swaybar diameters? I am thinking that the non adjustable bars are hollow, just looking at the fabrication, and the adjustable bars are solid? Does anyone know for sure....have any old Hyper mags detailing them ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...