Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I dont know if this post has been done before but basically I want to know who tuned your car.

Please include:

MODS

Power Figure

Price

ECU (PFC, Microtech ect)

Service - Was it good or bad?

Please also PM if you have any bad info on tunners or people I shouldn't use.

I want to book my car in to get tuned. Its an RB25DET with Power fc, and bolt on mods.

Kind regards

Sam Murray

P.S if this a repost some on can slap me and point me to the original post that would be awsome! I had a look but couldn't find it for Tas.

Edited by sam.murray
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228041-who-tuned-your-car/
Share on other sites

Dr Drift, R31 RB25det

MODS; TD06, injectors, exhaust, CAI, fuel pump.

Power Figure; 240 rwkw @ 13 psi, 255 rwkw @ 15.5 psi, 265 rwkw @ 19 psi

Price; $650.00

ECU; Factory Nissan R32 GTS-T

Service; Fantastic!!

Pro Automotive, R34 GT-T

MODS; FMIC, injectors, exhaust, CAI, fuel pump.

Power Figure; 210 rwkw @ 13 psi

Price; $300.00

ECU; Power FC

Service; Excellent!

Boost Automotive, R32 GT-R

MODS: HKS GT2530's, intercooler, exhaust.

Power Figure: 311rwkw @ 1.1bar

Price: $850 from mem (that included Plugs, Oil and wheel bearings)

ECU: Power FC

Service: Excellent

Boost Automotive, R33 GT-R N1

MODS: exhaust.

Power Figure: 323rwkw @ 1.3bar

Price: can't remember

ECU: Power FC

Service: Excellent

Andrew at Pro Automotive is very good and cannot recommend enough. He will provide a safe tune that you do not need to worry about.

Pro Automotive, R32 GT-R VS-II (2005)

MODS: Exhaust, N1 Turbos, Nismo fuel reg, K&N panel filter, 95RON PULP

Power Figure: 255rwkw @ 16psi (Dyno Logic)

ECU: Mines VX-Rom

Service: Excellent

Car Performance: Consistant fifth position on most stages at Rallye Burnie that year

Pro Automotive, R32 GTS-t (2004)

MODS: Exhaust, FMIC, 98RON PULP

Power Figure: 177rwkw @ 17psi (Dyno Logic)

ECU: Unichip

Service: Excellent

Car performance: low 62s at Symmons

Howell Automotive, S14 (2003)

MODS: Exhaust, HKS pod filter, fuel reg, 95RON PULP

Power Figure: 180rwkw @ 17psi (Dyno Dynamics), but struggled to show more than 150 on Pro Automotive Dyno Logic dyno

ECU: Unichip

Service: Excellent

Car performance: low 63s at Basky

R32 GTS-t - RB20

MODS: TD-06 20g l2 kit with 10cm rear, 3" dump, FMIC, stock cat back/injectors/afm, 95RON

Power Figure: 205rwk @ 14psi

Price: $650

ECU: remapped Central 20

Service: Couldn't complain at the time

Im currently looking at tuning option for old girl again with the new set up and after talking with Kuc he was not only extremely helpful but also came straight out and said that i should have a look around at other tuners as he didn't feel he could get the best out of my set up.

Even after that he has still taken the time to answer questions that i've had so its a big :) for me to Pro Automotive

I had my 1600 (FJ20) tuned by Kuc and the stanza (Z18) was tuned by Griffo using Kuc's dyno :)

Boost Automotive R33 RB25det

MODS, 3in turbo back exhaust, front mount, fuel reg, fuel pump, Greddy plenum, pod,

Power Figure 214km @ 10psi

Price bit over $500

ECU Power FC

Service - as posted in a thread last year, was not happy with the service at all, quoted $300 to adjust the map as it already had been tuned. they went ahead and put iridium plugs in it and removed some of the silicon hoses and put heather hose there instead.

have sent several cars down to Kutsie at pro automotive and am very happy withthe results. he's very good with comunication and will talk to u about what you want to use the car for etc.

Pro Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, Hks pro s 2835 turbo, injectors, cams, plenum, fuel pump

Power Figure; 228 rwkw @ 15 psi,

Price; carn't remember

ECU; power fc

Service; ok. I would never bag him out, there is plenty of people out there who have got great results.I just didn't get the result I wanted.

Dr Drift

MODS; Fmic, Hks pro s 2835 turbo, injectors, cams, plenum, fuel pump

Power Figure; 260 rwkw @ 15 psi

Price; $150.00

ECU; Power FC

Service; Sam only had mine on the dyno for an hour, I didn't want to go above 260rwkw as i don't want to risk the standard bottom end. very happy with his service.

Edited by woolls

Boost Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, VG30turbo, injectors, fuel pump, A/MDump pipe, Elec boost cont, Pwr Fc

Power Figure; 248 rwkw @ 15 psi,

Price; think it was about $430

ECU; power fc

Service; ummm, not bagging, but lacks costomer service skills at times.

Boost Automotive;

MODS; Fmic, twin T3/T4 turbos, 1000cc injectors, cams, plenum

Power Figure; 399 rwkw @ 17 psi,

Price; Think it was about $400

ECU; Haltech E11v2

Service; great.

This was my old RB25 and will take the new setup to him also. That is all the same goodies on a 25/30

Well theres only a few choices in tassy realy. and if you read every thing on the net they all have strong positives and negatives.

i recently took my car to boost

MODS: FMIC, gtr injectors, r34 turbo, good dump pipe and 3" straight through exhaust. runing on and rb25de

power: 194rwkw on 10psi but detuned for a slipping clutch

Price: $420 including iridiums

ECU: power FC

Service: i was happy with the service but and there is always a but it cost nearly doubble what i was advised (not quoted) would have been close bar the iridums

i was very happy with the feed back about my motor and alike. ive been told this isnt a strong point with boost but i was happy.

i am unsure if i will try some where elce next time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...