Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is all very interesting :)

Roy, nice choice mate. With the freedoms in Classic you could turn a DR into a good thing :)

You'll get good money for it if you do well in it. Only if the car is reknown for pace though. IMO

This is Brisby we are talking about here.

If he builds it (1.2% chance of him actually doing it rather than just talking about it!) it will look good, sound great but due to some whack theory he devises he will actually make it go quite slowly.

But it should end up with nice brakes if nothing else.

:)

Feeling the love Bris??

You build it and I will drive it.... you seemed happy enough to let me have a crack in the RB20 of awesomeness at Benalia for some nuts....

Edited by Darkside

Whole early, early modern and late, early modern split is bogus, when post 86 was modern, life was so much easier! Without any knowledge of whys and wherefores, contention that the addition of late cosmetics, on an essentially unchanged platform, put you 6 or 7 minutes up the road....you gotta say, take the hand off the pud, gurus.

Yeah mate spotted that, but it's a fair way over the odds.

And Benny, no thanks. lol

buy my emo 6 RS. has the CR box (which is awesome for circuit/tarmac etc), has upgraded LSDs front, rear and centre. no gAYC or ACD, strong 200kw, ohlins suspension, TE37s etc. nice and straight and full registered. I'm getting keen to sell too so will move off my high horse!

I took it out to wakefield the other day and even on street tyres (dunlop Z1*) I managed a 1:12 which is bloody hauling considering I'm pretty shit behind the wheel. no ABS though I think (not that I've had any bad lock-ups, would be nice for tarmac though).

they are farking quick and with all the LSds the thing is still a bit hairy and fun to drive. it does have way more grip that it deserves though!

Whole early, early modern and late, early modern split is bogus, when post 86 was modern, life was so much easier! Without any knowledge of whys and wherefores, contention that the addition of late cosmetics, on an essentially unchanged platform, put you 6 or 7 minutes up the road....you gotta say, take the hand off the pud, gurus.

I'm not quite sure who/what you're taking aim at? Care to elaborate? I think you're referring to Series 6 through 8 RX7's?

Let the record state, I for one couldn' give a rats arse about them. Come one, come all I reckon :)

Richard your being an enabler! Can you go and sell some crack to some teens instead?

you been following me again? lol, it's not like i'm adding another emo to the world. just passing one on! wooster is already practically a woman in pants so the emo will suit him to a tee.

well in my RS is mech clutch plate for the center LSD, just like the front and rear. not sure what the stock VI has. probably open diff?

all I can say is if I can pilot that car to a 1:12 at wakefield (bear in mind street tyres, 200kw and small brakes), then it's a fking weapon of a car. cause it sure as hell isn't the driver... I can't drive a greasy stick up a dogs arse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...