Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I get this when backing off the power, say, at 120 on a hill when it's under load. Sometimes on the level too. Is this something to be concerned about? Likely cause?

Much obliged a p u.

No idea (sorry to disappoint), but mine has started doing it too. Only when travelling at 110kph or more. If I sit on 100kph, I don't have the shudder.

No noise, sort of feels like the engine leans out. Very weird.

I am not 100% sure that it s transmission as it feels like it is coming from around the front axle... perhaps.

Anyone else have this or know about it?

  • 2 months later...

Is your car still shuddering?

I had a wheel alignment when I got my LMX5's last month which did not help the situation.

I took it to Nissan who put their "magical" satchel in when they did a full service on the transmission, snappier gear change but no change to shuddering.

Nissan also did an ECU reset, again, no change to shuddering.

Frustrating!

Anyway, I had my exhaust & front pipe installed on Saturday and also changed the spark pugs.

The shudder seems to have gone completely, even when cruising at 130kph for half an hour!

Don't know which one fixed it (touch wood), but it has definately settled down (not to mention become MUCH more lively and quite a bit quicker :( ).

Edited by iamhe77

I guess I didn't touch enough wood (refrain from the "wood" jokes).

The shuddering is back again this morning but only for a short time.

....Frustrating as all hell.

Nobody seems to know what it is.

Will check tonight IF I get time & daylight (unlikely).

Quick question, if air was being pushed back into the turbo when lifting off the accelerator, would it make a noise or shudder?

(just a theory a friend of mine had).

Could b a number of things...have u checked engine mounts...worn or damaged mounts can cause the engine to move on acceleration or deceleration. Excess gear backlash (the amount of freeplay between the gear teath when engaged)...this can mean a worn box...same can happen for diffs.

though with such a new car...this shouldn't b the case...though its probs worth a check.

+1 for checking engine and gearbox mounts.

also the turbo will make a flutter sound and not shudder with that condition and wouldnt affect the entire car like that. BUT with the air surge, this may affect the AFM metering and might make the engine shudder if it gets more fuel that its supposed to. maybe check the factory BOV is working. block up the return pipe (with something you can again remove) and see if the prob is still there. but id be checking other things first.

Well here's one for you.....does your make a slipping/farting sound at maximum torque(3,500 to 4,000rpm's)?....I also get a slight vibration but it's only under maximum power from about 110km's onwards......sort of feels like the front wheels are trying to get tow out.

weird i know...never had that experience before in anything....lol.

P.S. and know I don't drink or smoke weed while driving!!!!!lol

Well here's one for you.....does your make a slipping/farting sound at maximum torque(3,500 to 4,000rpm's)?....I also get a slight vibration but it's only under maximum power from about 110km's onwards......sort of feels like the front wheels are trying to get tow out.

weird i know...never had that experience before in anything....lol.

P.S. and know I don't drink or smoke weed while driving!!!!!lol

Nope, no noise when it shudders. Just drops power/revs briefly.

Having said that, I have had a couple of instances under full boost where it would sound like I have a hole in the muffler.

As soon as I let up it goes away & doesn't come back if I get back on the power... weird huh? Would this be similar to what happens with yours?

+1 for checking engine and gearbox mounts.

also the turbo will make a flutter sound and not shudder with that condition and wouldnt affect the entire car like that. BUT with the air surge, this may affect the AFM metering and might make the engine shudder if it gets more fuel that its supposed to. maybe check the factory BOV is working. block up the return pipe (with something you can again remove) and see if the prob is still there. but id be checking other things first.

+2 on engine mounts, not sure if it works with auto trans cars but with a manual you can check the flex by pulling the handbrake hard on, reving the engine and dipping the clutch to apply load to the motor while someone else (mechanic) observes how much the engine twists in the bay. Someone else here might be able to clear this one up.

re: turbo, If the BOV is blocked you'd notice it because you'd be getting the distinct flutter sound. I doubt this would affect the AFM enough to make the whole car shudder but it might increase the chance of the engine stalling at low RPM - my Stag used to stall after a small rev with the BOV blocked off but it never used to shudder.

  • 5 months later...
No idea (sorry to disappoint), but mine has started doing it too. Only when travelling at 110kph or more. If I sit on 100kph, I don't have the shudder.

No noise, sort of feels like the engine leans out. Very weird.

I am not 100% sure that it s transmission as it feels like it is coming from around the front axle... perhaps.

Anyone else have this or know about it?

new to the forum but mystag vibrates at around 4500-5500rpm i think it is the viscous fan if you watch it and rev the car you can see it it also goes away afther about 5500dont know if it is the same thing but worth a trywhen not moving you can bearly feel it in the car only when driving

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
×
×
  • Create New...