Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello people

just wandering if any one would know how 2 fix this problem ,i had my injectors cleaned and tested.Then put back on the car found out that fuel was just flooding the engine i had a local mahcanic come over 2 check it n he said the injectors was open even without the ignition on.Whats responsible for the injectors opening ? any help would be good thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228735-injectors-staying-open-help/
Share on other sites

for one the orings have nothin to do with the engine flooding they just keep the fuel from leaking out of the rail and plenum etc.

its where the solenoid is staying open which lets residual pressure push extra fuel into each cylinder.

normally from experience if its only one injector that played up replace it. but if all have played up either its a electrical issue or the ppl that cleaned ur injector did sumthing terribly wrong lol.

for one the orings have nothin to do with the engine flooding they just keep the fuel from leaking out of the rail and plenum etc.

its where the solenoid is staying open which lets residual pressure push extra fuel into each cylinder.

normally from experience if its only one injector that played up replace it. but if all have played up either its a electrical issue or the ppl that cleaned ur injector did sumthing terribly wrong lol.

From experience, without the o-rings on, the motor floods.

just curious guys but which o rings r the ones were talking about? the larger one at the top or the smaller one at the bottom of the injector?

Not trying to hijack this thread but the bottom O rings on the side feed injectors have that plastic thing that clips onto the nozzle of the injector which also holds the bottom o ring in place. My question is, can u buy replacement plastic clip things for them and what happens in the situation that you dont put them on?

Kinda vague, just finished work...

Thanks

Chris

If they are staying open even with the power off it sounds like the injector has ceased. If they have been lying around for a while they can cease up. Can also be a result of running them dry. If they were working fine and you toook them out and got them cleaned id go back to the people that cleaned them asking for a new injector.

the injectors havent been used for 3 years n the o rings one of them has a little spilt i showed the guy from the injector cleaning place n he said it was ok ,dam him!Well i'll go try another set of injectors with fuel rail n see how that works out. Thanks guys for the feed back

cuz with side feed they can actually leak down past the orings into the cylinder entry. i double checked i was right i wen out into the shed and ripped one out of a spare rail ive got sittin here. put it all back together now tho so i cant take ne fotos to show u or nethin....

Edited by skylinekid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...