Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Considering getting a front bar on my series 1 R33, but I'm wondering if its really worth it.

Possible problems I could foresee;

1. Forgetting its there and smashing it on something when parking.

2. Grinding it on various drive ways, etc.

3. Added harassment from cops, and hoons.

Mainly I'm concerned I'll damage it. Has anyone had any experience with this?

Also, how does a front bar look on a stock R33? Does it look silly without skirts and a rear bar?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228781-front-bars-are-they-worth-it/
Share on other sites

well it adds more character to the car!

but the downside is you gotta learn what you can make without smashing the front bar and what angle you need to take.

mines pretty smashed up now so i dont really care when it scrapes

yeah everyone baby's their new kit...just like a new mobile phone. Then u drop it for the first time...cringe...then eventually after a while, you won't care...If cops and damage are your only concern...then just get it...

Hiya,

You'll appreciate its looks when you get a front lip. If you want it look stock, you may be able to land one with a Nismo shape from www.jsai.com.au

It doesn't look at all out of place without skirts and rear pods.

In regard to damaging it, you'll be immediately conscious that it's there as soon as have it put on so...

i) you'll be aware enough to go over gutters at an angle

ii) you'll be aware enough to reverse into spots where there's a concrete stopper

iii) you'll learn where there are dodgy culverts to avoid as you drive from place to place and lastly,

iv) by avoiding the above, it'll prove that you're sober at the time eh? lol

Later on, you can buy skirts if need be...

Cheers, T

Depending on the aggressiveness of the front bar and its height will determine if it looks out of place with the factory side skirts and rear bar.

Learning to drive with a bodykit, as people have mentioned, will take time but it will also give your car a unique look and completely different stance.

1. Forgetting its there and smashing it on something when parking.

2. Grinding it on various drive ways, etc.

3. Added harassment from cops, and hoons.

Been through all of these, lol. Had problems for first 2 weeks of driving with bodykit... accidentally smashed it on a carpark and fixing and respraying it costed $350 :/ ... After that so far so good. Just make sure your suspension has stock ride height and you should be alright. Dont go too low, otherwise you'll have too many problems at dips and driveways. And dont worry if you occasionally scratch bottom of the front bar... noone will see it and soon or later you'd get stonechips etc. on the bottom anyway.

Edited by Rocky88

Thanks for the info guys.

I had another question, approximately how much does it cost to paint a front bar (or skirts, and rear for that matter)?

I'm pretty sure I could fit it myself, or at least with the help of a couple of mates, but I tried searching and couldn't get a price on exactly how much preparing plus painting costs.

Thanks again.

I would not recommend fitting it yourself, depending on where you buy the bodykit from there could be a bit of work involved with making it sit well. Best to pay the professionals and get the job done right.

I had a Fibreglass (as is most kits) Evo front bar on my lancer (Before the Skyline).

Made a big difference to the look of the car. (My opinion for the positive). Drew a bit more attention but nothing drastic. However. It made the car feel a lot more Fragile. Especially when you start seeing minor cracks form around the major mounting points. Then when i roadworthyed the car to sell it. They said they wouldnt give me a roadroady with a fibreglass bumper due to impact resistance. On a positive the front bar arrived and fit the car perfectly which was good.

Ill never change the front bar on my line. I am considering a Carbon Lip + Diffuser to go under my standard S2 bar. But I would never buy a cheap f/g replacement anymore.

So does no one have an average cost of preparing and painting, and fitting?

I'm really considering getting one, but don't want to find out a few hundred down the track that paint and installation cost a lot more than expected.

Prep/paint/clear/fit a bar with no extra problems may cost between $350-$600. Ask for Speedy Clips rather than bolts if appropriate so that you can get the bar off again yourself without hassles ie. to change a bulb, source a leak, to get at this or that...

Cheers, T

I had an M-sports front bar on my 33 for 6 or so months until my girlfriend put it into a lump of dirt on a mate lawn and cracked it :down:

Its now on my mates car all stiched up with cable ties (drift spec).

Heres a pic of it on mine VVVVVVV, price was $400 for the bar and $350 for paint.

post-43220-1217079315_thumb.jpg

i've prob got 7-8cm clearance up front :worship: you get use to it...

This is not a legal issue in Vic... it's the BODY of the car (including exhaust) which can't be lower than 100mm... side skirts/body kit can be lower...

i also have a plastic front bumper, not FG, this gives you a lot more flex, and i surely would have snapped it quite a few times otherwise... it's more expensive but it's save me what... 2 resprays at say $800 all up? something to think about

if you drive a lot of the same roads, and go to the same car parks, etc... that it's easy to manage because you know what clearances you have and don't have. I dread new car parks. I tried getting into the Melb Central car park from lonsdale st (under the walkway) in heavy traffic... and i couldn't f*cking get up the ramp!

So if you drive pretty much the same places, a low front bumper can be managed...

yes they are worth it! get one! or two or three! i've had four in my time of driving my r33 series 1 and i've loved every single one of them - especially my most recent custom made :worship:

that's it, get one! don't worry about the price just shop around and dont get anybody dodgy!

This is not a legal issue in Vic... it's the BODY of the car (including exhaust) which can't be lower than 100mm... side skirts/body kit can be lower...

can you show mw vic roads docs stating this? :worship:

hahaha, this is what Traction Tyres told me, and i thought if anyone is to know, they would (they run a tool under the whole car to check clearances) And i asked about the front bumper, and they're like, don't worry, it's just the body of the car.

i'm more than welcome to be proven wrong though, cos i'd like to know if my car is infact illegal... i've been pulled over a few times recently, all officers checking the front of the car, nothing said yet :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...