Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, recently my battery died because i left my lights on so i had to jump start it, so after ive jump started the battery ever since then ive had this problem with my power steering.

now i dont know if its got to do with the jump start or if it was just a coincidence, but my power steering is now screwed, it gets really hard at times to turn a corner.

When i turn a roundabout for example itll seize up and release, its mixed. So its not like its hard the whole way round, just split moments if im making sense. Now ive checked my reservoir and its full and doesnt seem to be leaking, and my p/s fuse seems to be fine, so any information you guys can give me would be much appreciated. :blush:

Cheers,

Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229184-power-steering-problem-r32/
Share on other sites

the main reason for heavy steering is a leak somewhere. and considering the numerous little pieces of presumably old rubber between the diferent hard line sections scattered all over the car, including the ones back to the hicas..... ya probably leaking somwhere.

replacing old power steering lines has become a hobby of mine with my 32.... just about got them all.

probably a fault with the vehical speed sensor, maybe fried it when you jump started. as i understand it, when your at idle and not going anywhere a solinoid switches the powersteering pump into a low pump mode so it doesn't bog the engine down, once you start moving it swiches the pump to full. if you speed sensor if playing up the pump wont be switching into full mode hense the heavy stearing.

try doing a ecu diagnostic and HICAS diagnostic and see if you get an error code. there is info on this in the tutorial section. or if you know someone with a consult cable get them to check for you.

It's a voltage problem. You may well have to replace the battery.

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago, its definitely voltage, mine turned out to be the alternator had packed it in. The HICAS solenoid was opening and closing with a lack of voltage at idle whilst driving at night with headlights and accessories on. Sounded like there was something caught around my drive shaft and slapping against the foot well but really it was the pressure building up in the lines by the pump and then and getting released sending a shock wave through the lines, it was only audible at a standstill at low revs, when i was moving it just turned into heavy-light-heavy steering as i was turning a corner. My alternator seemed to work on start-up when it was cold (14.5V i think) then stopped working after a few minutes causing rough idle, whine through the stereo and dim headlights. I ended up killing a battery a new battery in the process by dropping it below 8V for too long and it never came back even after i changed the alternator. In the process of getting a battery zapper to see if i can bring it back to life, cold winter mornings are asking alot more from the battery than usual. Its been 2 weeks with a new alternator and haven't had any steering problems which used to happen everyday.

it wasnt the battery or the alt. I went past oh performance and they seem to believe it may be the power steering pressure sensor, so im looking at changing that to see what happens, but i cant seem to find 1. Anyone know where i can find 1?

hey mate. if your alternator is overcharging for example 15volts and over it could be spiking the computer and the system is shutting down because of it saving the components in your power steering. charge rate for all vehicles should be no lower then 13.5v and 14.8v. some of these problems i've seem through my workshop are caused from an intermitted charging fault. the battery wont cause the problem as it is only a storage device, once the vehicle is running the alt runs the vehicle, not the battery. hope the helps.

yea thanks mate, it is overcharging, because what ive realized is when i start the car the voltage sits at around 12v and the steering is perfect, as soon as i give it a rev past 3,000rpm the volts rise to about 14.5-15.0v and the steering is rough.

But another thing that happened that i found really weired is i changed my fuel pump the other day and ever since then, night time driving is great, voltage sits from 13.9-14.3 and steering is perfect but day-time driving sits at 14.5-15.0 again. Thats trippy shit.

So anyway, we've come to the conclusion that the alt needs to be changed.

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...