Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I currently have an r33 GTS-T with the following mods pushing out 273 rwkw:

HKS GT2835 Pro S Running at 17.5 PSI

GReddy FMIC

Bosch 040 Fuel pump

nismo 555cc injetors

CAI with pod filter

3.5 inch Turbo back exhaust with split dump

splitfire coilpacks

Z32 AFM

Power FC

Now, I have around $6,500 to spend and I was wondering what I should get with my money to get my car above 330 rwkw.

I've hear that the HKS GT2835 Pro S is most efficient at around 22 psi, so that's what I'll be intending to run.

I know Cams, valve springs and gasket are also a must but what else?

I want to be able to run low 11's down the qtr with ease.

I've read through all the dyno threads, and I am also looking at the option of the RB30 Hybrid upgrade?

Any gurus out there please tell me your thoughts on how I can achieve 330 rwkw with around $6,500.

Cheers

HKS 256 in and out will be all you will need cams wise.

You will NOT need vavle springs.

You might want to think about changing your oil pump. I recomend a billit one from Race Pace. NOT tomie, jun or N1.

You might want to think about forged internals.

You definatly need a 3037 or bigger 3540 from horspower in a box. Your current turbo will sell easy.

Do that and you will have 330 with ease.

Probably the easiest way to 330rwkw with change in your pocket would be a good quality nitrous system. Seriously. Have thought about it many times.... 270+ rwkw plenty for the street in my book - an extra 100 horse for the track at the flick of a switch...

For 330 rwkw you'll need a bigger turbo and we all know that means more lag

Edited by gtst25

wow i have now learnt alot about the capabilities of the 28/35 as this is the way i first originally wanted to go now i am heading down the path of the kkr480. cheers guys, H!

I'd keep that $6500 aside in readiness for an engine rebuild.

But if you have a separate budget for that, i'd recommend a good clutch (if manual) and a good-flowing exhaust manifold to make full use of that HKS hair-dryer you have.

Edited by RS500

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...