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Hey mate buy my 20 turbo and get that high flowed less down time.

Anyway what the do pull it apart do a bit of machining put in high flow blades that are steel balance it put it back together in some sort of order

thats pretty much it, they will just change the wheels to steel and chuck in some new bearings, hi-flowed doesnt really mean more power, it just means you can run more than 14psi boost before the wheel dies on you, i wouldnt bother with it, i mean the cheapest you could get it done is for $800, i would just buy a second hand t04 or look on yahooactions.jp for a turbo if you can read jap,

cheers

Wow, SKYRUPTOR, take it easy.

R33 turbo, was just that, a suggestion. Being its the best choice really aside from a 2530 or other turbo of a known quantity

And d_mac explained his point but it somehow went 'missing' in your quote, so not sure how you could get his post incorrect. Was self explainitory

Hey peoples

Can someone please advise me what is involved in high flowwing my RB20 turbo?

and how much to expect to pay ?

and also where would be a good place to get this done in the north west suburbs of melbourne?

Cheers guys...

Some info from this site;

http://www.billetturbochargers.com/Turbo_r...and_hiflows.ews

Procedure for Stage 1 and Stage 2 Hiflows

• Turbo disassembled

• Covers and Housings thoroughly cleaned and checked for faults.

• Covers and Housings bead blasted and checked for faults.

• Bearing housing machined for new bearing system and clearances checked.

• New bearing system fitted and checked.

• New Hiflow Turbine fitted.

• New Hiflow Compressor wheel fitted.

• Assembly checked true and straight.

• Core assembled and checked true and straight.

• Core balanced and balance double checked.

• Compressor cover machined to suit new compressor wheel, clearances checked.

• Exhaust housing machined to suit new turbine, clearances checked.

• Wastegate fitted and checked.

• Complete turbo spun up for final balance check.

Expect to pay from $1000-$1800~ depending on workshop and which stage.

Call up these guys and ask if they do hiflow's

http://www.rotomaster.com.au/about.html

Cheers

Some info from this site;

http://www.billetturbochargers.com/Turbo_r...and_hiflows.ews

Procedure for Stage 1 and Stage 2 Hiflows

• Turbo disassembled

• Covers and Housings thoroughly cleaned and checked for faults.

• Covers and Housings bead blasted and checked for faults.

• Bearing housing machined for new bearing system and clearances checked.

• New bearing system fitted and checked.

• New Hiflow Turbine fitted.

• New Hiflow Compressor wheel fitted.

• Assembly checked true and straight.

• Core assembled and checked true and straight.

• Core balanced and balance double checked.

• Compressor cover machined to suit new compressor wheel, clearances checked.

• Exhaust housing machined to suit new turbine, clearances checked.

• Wastegate fitted and checked.

• Complete turbo spun up for final balance check.

Expect to pay from $1000-$1800~ depending on workshop and which stage.

Call up these guys and ask if they do hiflow's

http://www.rotomaster.com.au/about.html

Cheers

Cheers mate thats everything i needed to know.

Thanks :down:

Why would i buy an RB 20 turbo from someone that i know nothin about and have no history on the turbo. When i could get the turbo that i've got high flowed?

if you're looking to have an rb20 turbo hi-flowed, the ideal thing is to get one which is in need of a rebuild and using that.

in this way, if yours is good, you can keep it for later down the track if you ever want to put the engine back to standard or you could sell it as a good turbo.

kapish?

for the price of hi-flowing an RB20 turbo (T25 equivalent), you could have yourself a very good condition/near new HKS 2530 or Garrett GT28RS which are very reputable for the RB20. they'll both produce more power and have less chance of bearing/wheel failure unlike most hi-flowed turbos. after all, hi-flows are increasing the turbos flow and efficiency inside the same housing which they are not designed to do. the only advantage you will have is increasing boost past 12-14PSI of what the standard ceramic wheels can handle.

a friend of mine has an RB20 turbo hi-flowed from Rotomaster which he brought for $1,300. even having a TR43 on my car, the power from the hi-flow is quite unimpressive and weak compared to mine and other turbos of the same price and value.

IF you were to choose a hi-flow, you're better off going with an RB25 hi-flow turbo.

Edited by dmr

Oh dear, there are a few piles of rubbish in this thread. Having had several GCG Ball Bearing high flows on RB20, RB25 and RB25 Neo engines I can speak from personal experience.

A standard RB20 turbo is the same as a standard RB25 turbo in every way except the compressor is slightly smaller on the RB20. This means it develops boost earlier which can be important on the smaller capacity RB20. It all depends on what you want from the engine, an RB20 high flow will develop around 20 rwkw less (250 versus 230) at around 1.3 bar but will develop boost 500 rpm earlier.

For $1750 (on the Group Buy) a GCG ball bearing high flow (RB20, RB25 or RB25 NEO) has a brand new Garret duel ball bearing core, new compressor, new shaft, new turbine, new seals and new gaskets. The standard compressor and turbine covers are machined to suite the new (larger) compressor and turbine. Plus the rotating internals are micro balanced. So basically it is a new turbo and carries the appropriate warranty. The big advantage of a high flow is that it looks just like the standard turbo (no defects) and it fits exactly up as per the standard turbo. All the standard fittings, same inlet pipework, same water and oil, same exhaust dump, there is nothing extra to buy or modify. So it's an easy DIY job if you're handy with a few tools. No aftermarket turbo that I have seen is 100% bolt on like a that.

An RB20 high flow will make more power than an 2510 or GTSS, and RB25 high flow will make more power than a GT2530 and an RB25 Neo high flow will make more power than a GT2540 based on what I have over the last 9 years.

Them's the facts

Cheers

Gary

For $1750 (on the Group Buy) a GCG ball bearing high flow (RB20, RB25 or RB25 NEO) has a brand new Garret duel ball bearing core, new compressor, new shaft, new turbine, new seals and new gaskets. The standard compressor and turbine covers are machined to suite the new (larger) compressor and turbine. Plus the rotating internals are micro balanced. So basically it is a new turbo and carries the appropriate warranty.

getting a hi-flow like this would be ideal and strong, but unfortunately not all hi-flows are of the same workmanship as the ones you describe which makes the bad category of hi-flow turbos. as they say, you get what you pay for.

Oh dear, there are a few piles of rubbish in this thread. Having had several GCG Ball Bearing high flows on RB20, RB25 and RB25 Neo engines I can speak from personal experience.

A standard RB20 turbo is the same as a standard RB25 turbo in every way except the compressor is slightly smaller on the RB20. This means it develops boost earlier which can be important on the smaller capacity RB20. It all depends on what you want from the engine, an RB20 high flow will develop around 20 rwkw less (250 versus 230) at around 1.3 bar but will develop boost 500 rpm earlier.

For $1750 (on the Group Buy) a GCG ball bearing high flow (RB20, RB25 or RB25 NEO) has a brand new Garret duel ball bearing core, new compressor, new shaft, new turbine, new seals and new gaskets. The standard compressor and turbine covers are machined to suite the new (larger) compressor and turbine. Plus the rotating internals are micro balanced. So basically it is a new turbo and carries the appropriate warranty. The big advantage of a high flow is that it looks just like the standard turbo (no defects) and it fits exactly up as per the standard turbo. All the standard fittings, same inlet pipework, same water and oil, same exhaust dump, there is nothing extra to buy or modify. So it's an easy DIY job if you're handy with a few tools. No aftermarket turbo that I have seen is 100% bolt on like a that.

An RB20 high flow will make more power than an 2510 or GTSS, and RB25 high flow will make more power than a GT2530 and an RB25 Neo high flow will make more power than a GT2540 based on what I have over the last 9 years.

Them's the facts

Cheers

Gary

so which would make boost earlier? 2510 or rb20 hi-flow?

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