Jump to content
SAU Community

Battery Removal

Kyro

By Kyro,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kyro Apprentice

Kyro

Posted
Posted

Ok the other day I was disconnecting my battery from my R33 GTS and began unscrewing the negative cable from the car (secured with 2 small nuts) I thought this would be the easiest way. I got the first nut off fine but when I began undoing the second one it sparked at first I thought it was just a little discarge but when the nut lost contact with the securing plate it sparked again and set the alarm off, I then had to tighten it again with more sparking but once it was in contact again the alarm went off... WTF? I'm sure this was the neg cable as it was connected to the boot (earthed?) and the other cable had the red cover on it and was beside the fuse console. Was I supposed to disconect the engine bay leads instead? Or is there a problem somewhere along the line? Plz help guys :ermm:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230669-battery-removal/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The sparking is because something (usually stereo, for keeping station settings) is still drawing current. No major drama.

Most alarm sirens will go off if they switch to their backup battery (such as when the car's battery is disconnected). The siren should have a key to turn it off so you can disconnect the car battery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230669-battery-removal/#findComment-4053078
Share on other sites
Kyro Apprentice

Kyro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea, that may be a problem. When i bought the car i did not receive a key from the owner (for the alarm). Are there any other ways to stop it. For example, any ground wires to take off for the back up battery for the alarm? Preferably a way with out breaking anything :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230669-battery-removal/#findComment-4053635
Share on other sites
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

If you cant disarm the alarm for a battery removal, you prolly should get a key. Some clever sparkys might be able to get a similar key for you.

Small amount of arcing is normal, though when the you touch the terminals, provide positive pressure with one hand, so it doesn't keep doing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230669-battery-removal/#findComment-4053670
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By MBS206 · Posted

      List all of your mods. It sounds like an aftermarket ECU hitting rev limiter. Like a valet mode, or a cold rpm limiter? 
    • tylink720
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By tylink720 · Posted

      @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
×
×
  • Create New...