Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not a bad night last night, once i got my starts sorted though the clutch didnt agree and the pedal stuck itself to the floor... just what you expect from a brand new button clutch from direct clutch. Anyway, i managed a best of 13.4@105mph with a 2.2 60ft. The last run my 60ft time was 2.0 but i couldnt shift into 2nd because of the clutch, so with a theoretical best of 13.2 im pretty happy :D. With my over rich std ecu tuned im sure i could pull off a 12 :)

Also if anyone wants to buy it, let me know, selling it because i cant get comprehensive insurance, which is a must for your daily driver..

Cant get comprehensive insurance full stop, or cant get it at the right price?

Cant get it at the right price. I like the car, but its not worth $50/week on top of car payments just for the insurance. I called everywhere and the best i can get is $2100. Could get alot better but just car doesnt honor driving company cars to change your rating so with them i have a rating 5. Unfortunate, because i was looking foward to my motec/TD06 ugprade :P Famous were the cheapest at $2195 or so, with a few others around the same price. Just car quoted $2200 with rating 5 or $1200 with rating 1, which i would pay but cant get :D

I think im going to go back and try for a 12. The tyres on the car arnt that happy, down the the worn out marker. I reduced the rear tyres to 25psi, not sure if lower would help as they are 235/40/18's.

What are the opinions on the clutch? The last run i slipped it a bit to control the wheelspin, and it just held there and slipped even after i took my foot right off, and wouldnt release till i missed 2nd gear about 5 times :D Its a 5 puck brass button that direct clutch said it would be good for well over 500hp, i dont think that my car would be anywhere near that much, and are quite dissapointed

Originally posted by gtrhybrid

try to find a friend with tires on rims that are smaller that 18's.  Those cause more drag that you think and the low profile tires leave no give in the sidewalls, and that kills traction.

And the bigger diameter wheels have their weight distributed further from the centre so you loose torque.

(torque=force x distance )

Drag cars have small wheels for a reason.

A TD06 sure wakes up an RB20:D

I would never have believed the old girl could pull 8300rpm so quick and easy (I still havent discovered where the new rev limit is:( )

With just 8psi it spins all thru 2nd and blows the door off the std turbo with 15psi and a tank full of toluene.

Have you tried the usual i have an alarm, drivers education courses etc etc. Tried being a named driver on a parents policy

(not ideal, hey im paying $2600 a year because i have listed all my mods... well except for the new turbo but ill get to that in the next week or two)

Nice result, congrats:)

On insurance, if you can be careful enough, have you thought about just 3rd party fire and theft? It just means you need to be extra careful driving cos if its your fault your on your own - but, you will get to enjoy the car a while longer and every year that you have the insurance your rating will go up, so in a few years the comprehensive will be cheaper. Just a thought, cos this is how I got myself a rating one many years ago.

I cant find a company that will do fire and theft for more than $8000 value on the car, any ideas? I dont mind fulll coverage theft but not if it only covers 1/2 or even a 1/4 of the value of the car. Something i forgot to ask about when i was calling around.

I just applied for a loan for a BA turbo ute... 511hp at wheels with standard turbo and internals is just too inviting, even if it does weight 1700kg. if that falls back i might buy a mazda 323 and drive that as my daily driver or find somewhere that will insure fire and theft to the real value of my car, and save up for a TD06 and ecu :).

just a question back on the topic...

are you sure it's a clutch problem?

the clutch pedal sticking to the floor sounds like a clutch cylinder problem.

Like there it is sucking in air...

it's a lot cheaper than a new clutch dude.

get a mechanic to check it out..

A new clutch master cylinder and a slave cylinder seal kit for my R32 GTST cost less than $200 supplied and fitted...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...