Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 rolling start drags. 3rd gear. R31 RB30E vs R33 GTS RB25DE

R31 : 3

R33 : 0

when we both got a good start it was VERY close.

Didnt rev the 31 over 5000rpm (power dies off)

31 - extractors exhaust panel filter butchered airbox and timing, no rear seats/speakers or anything in boot.

33 - extractors full exhaust and maybe a pod, full interior.

Very wierd, didn't expect that result.

I reckon he would probably take me from a standing start.

:uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23185-surprising-result-31-vs-33/
Share on other sites

hehehehe maybe we'll have to test the standing start theory, but yep slip definately had me all 3 times. My car has extractors highflow cat hks super drager zaust and a slightly home tuned safc oh and a k n n highflow panel filter. And i didnt have my boot install in at the time which also slows the car down alot!! id hate to think how bad it would of been if it was in there. Damn car.... I wont have it back till next week now, oh well maybe with the cf bonnet it will be enough of a weight reduction to beat u!! hahaha i call a rematch!

P.S. I was giving it everything too, flat changing at 6900 just before the cut out.... ah well....

:)

What's the factory weight of the R33 GTS as compared to the factory weight of our R31's? the GX R31's are about 1300 or so (bit under maybe?) from the factory If I remember correctly?

Is there much weight loss to be had in stripping that stuff out Slip? Oh, and a little off topic, but how do you remove the R31 back seat?

cheers,

floody

Hmm i did a 15.409 @ 87mph with stereo and the spare and jack in my 31.

Exhaust, Extractors and a pod filter, 20Degree's timing, but thats it. It's a Silhouette 5speed.

http://www.pbase.com/image/17609646

Im really suprised with these results too slip, on ya mate.

not bad not bad at all! im not a suckup benny boy :D i just thought R33 GTS would be quicker then an R31, hence why a better driver in an R31 makes it quicker some how lol, well all i can say is i beat an R31 gts turbo around morgan park, over took him a few times!

chaos - was done on a closed road.

Dont think driver skill came into it, as there wasnt any noticeable change in position when we changed gears.

My car sucks off the line, bigtime.

No 0-100m or 1/4 mile times, probably 15.4-15.9 between timmay and jason's times.

Weight wise - towbar 15kg, 6x9's, rear seats 10kg, spare/jack fair bit. Dont know really.

floody - grab the rear squab and just pull it out. Undo the 2 bolts either side of the bottom right of the backrest. Then fold the middle of the backrest down so you have access to the boot, and right down the bottom there are 2 x 10mm i think nuts holding it on. Lift the backrest upwards as it has tabs in the rear parcel shelf, then pull it out. Done.

Would be interesting to see how the VL 5 Speed compares.

It runs a higher ratio diff compared to the R31's.

VL 3.45 -------- R31 3.7

Origionally my VL had an Auto in it, stock with a little bit of timing it made 90rwkw. It did used to go pretty well for a stocker and was very clean so maybe it wasn't thrashed. Once up and rolling it used to be exactly as quick as an auto 5ltr V8 statesman (VP) shape.

I then had the extractors and 2.5" exhaust fitted. I didn't dyno it but it used to suck the doors off a VS series II Eco-tec thingo and keep pulling. I also ran an Auto VR 5ltr and by 100km's he was at my rear bumper.

The Manual made a huge difference to off the line acceleration. With only stalling it up slightly it would easily wheelspin.

Towards the end after I had done around 60,000km's in it and clocked up 230,000kms it had started to not want to spin?!?! Was thrashed i'd say.. :O

Was a good car.. Nothing broke, bit like the R32 I guess. :(

I traded it in for a VS 5ltr that had Pacemaker extractors, 3.5" exhaust, chip, bilstein adj. suspension and believe it or not it wasn't that much quiker in 1st gear. 2nd gear it used to flick through pretty quick and by 115km/h and change in to third it was much quicker. I ended up having heaps of trouble with that car every part of the drive line including the rear IRS chassis broke. :P

Sold it bough the Skyline. Best car i've owned.

ive beat a hell of alot of manual vl commo's, my best friend and i actually had a proper standing start race and over approx 400 meters i beat him by 4 car lengths and also roll on my car shits all over it so slips would probably kill one.

Depends on the condition of the VL also as they are getting on now.

When I sold mine it was stuffed it really struggled to wheel spin. Didn't blow any smoke though. When I first got it with the auto it would sit there on the spot smoke first click second and spin second right up sitting on 120km/h on the spedo.

Stalling it up right on the edge would also make it wheel spin all the way through first with 215's on it. I could never find the sweet spot of launching with the auto as it would either bog down and feel like a rubber band gearbox or wheel spin.

its all about torque....the 3L will always pull away from a 2.5L, with atmos its all about cubes. but the RB30 wont rev to 6500rpm like the RB25, which does it so easily. but the RB25 doesnt have the torque to pull the big 33 around as its designed for a turbo 2.5L and even though the cars way roughly the same, the RB30 is better suited to the 31 than the 25 to the 33.

my R31 will get my brothers R33 GTS-t until he hits boost...then its all over.

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...