Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HELP!!!

Does anyone know anywhere to get coolant and oil lines to and from the turbos for a R32GTR.

They were bent beyond repair upon removal and Im just wondering if I have to go through nissan or if there's somewhere else cheaper...

I figure that whilst Ive got the engine out it should be fixed right... just to save me doing it again

Well...

A number of the traders on this forum are wreckers, would be a good place to start?

Failing that, the yellow pages has a very large wrecker listing for australia/Jap imports etc if you actually have a look :)

Has anyone used hose fabricating places to make the coolant and oil lines to the turbos on a GTR?

I tried enzed and they said they couldn't do it but I get the impression he just didn't wanna do it. Anyone tried enzed or any preferred hose fabricators?

Im hoping to get braided teflon coated lines and was just wondering if anyone has any good places

Ok guys... please dont laugh, my wallet is in too much pain at the moment

enzed wouldn't touch it, another hose repairer we use at work wouldn't go anywhere near it.. and after some convincing, I finally got pirtek to make teflon coated braided hose for $850 for 4 coolant, and 2 oil hoses... it looks pretty cool, and all fits perfectly with the hks gt-ss and the dump pipes but OUCH...

I think the next upgrade to my gtr will probably require me to sell an organ, anyone know what a used kidney is worth? How about a liver?

I will check with my friend when i receive mine and get them made up if the price is right.

850 is crazy!

so very crazy unless they are using all earls fittings and braided hose etc like whats on Dirtgarages car. then 800 would seem about right..

well when you look at its its about 30ish x 8 for the fittings for the water and oil lines, then the lines are around 60 per meter depending on size, then there is any other fittings like bends and such, and if its all speedflow then the adapters for the thread to speedflow.

also, this guy can help with braided lines ect, GT MOTORSPORT, 17 yalgar road kirrawee (the dead end street like 3 factorys up from just jap), 02 95214389

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

I used -6 for the coolant and -4 for oil lines.

I could price it again this is what i used from memory

from coolant block on motor

2 x -6 to m14x1.5 @14

2 x -6 14mm banjos (use std banjo bolts) @20

3 x -6 90 deg braided @ 35

3 x -6 straight braided @ 16

1 x -6 90 deg male male @20

Then the oil side

i think out the block on motor

2 x -4 m12x1.25 @ 15

1 x -4 straight braided @ 20

3 x -4 90 deg braided @ 60 (billet)

2 x -4 M12 banjo @ 20

prices are approximates, but would be close. Be approx 500-600, i was able to get wholesale through speed flow as i buy heaps of this stuff so was alot cheaper, the 60 retail billet -4 goes to 35 wholesale.

Only think you need to check is the metric threads as i cant remember if they are 12 10 14mm etc.

This is only the lines under the turbos, the other coolant lines that go over the turbos i left metal.

Edited by GTR1993

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...