Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo blokes,

Recently i read a thread by forum member URAS which highlighted the benefits of a blitz ebc with gain control over say a manual boost controller. IT basically showed better gain throughout the low/mid revs which was quite surprising.

Im in the market for a new EBC as mine currently is a HKS EVC version 3 and i would like an update. Now i was gonna buy the blitz ebc recommended but since ive come across the new HKS EVC version 6 which utilized a stepper motor instead of solenoids.

Now is this a new thing or do other manufacturers use these? are they better at controlling wastegates?

this is the link from ebay, it seems like a good price for a tough looking module

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=360079097260

what you guys think! oh and its for my R34 GTR; so standard twin turbos with internal gates

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232551-hks-evc-version-6/
Share on other sites

Im in the market for a new EBC as mine currently is a HKS EVC version 3 and i would like an update. Now i was gonna buy the blitz ebc recommended but since ive come across the new HKS EVC version 6 which utilized a stepper motor instead of solenoids.

Now is this a new thing or do other manufacturers use these? are they better at controlling wastegates?

what you guys think! oh and its for my R34 GTR; so standard twin turbos with internal gates

-Johnny

HKS have been utilizing the stepper motor for years over the cheaper solenoid version offered by other manufacturers. It is the best form of boost control on the market, that's why HKS use this method. I say go for it as you won't look back. You can even buy software for it to tune via laptop to make you boost control better again. CheersMarty

Solenoids don't give creep if set-up correctly, its as simple as that. No EBC does really.

Some are just harder to set-up than others depending how familiar you are with them etc etc

I've never seen any evidence to say one style is better than the other, i'd be inclined to say they are both equal in their own rights.

Thanks for the comments so far. I agree that many high powered turbo cars still use solenoids without a hitch so im still debating but it looks like im steering towards the HKS unit as it has a brilliant black and tough incabin unit.

at 600bux its not cheap but then again, im not either.

I will definitely post up results of the response when i run it on the dyno. My last dyno run net 235awkw and now i will be adding this EBC and apexi pods which are already installed to see if i can mimmic the nice midrange gains that URAS tested.

BTW who is that bloke Trent? is he a tuner? cos he sound like the go-to guy.

let you know in an hour or so :dry: i have a killer S15 here that i just finished installng a HKS EVC 6 (had it on dyno with various other controller before this on) into.... going on dyno now.

will keep you posted.

in my experience the stepper is as good as any other single sonelnoid controller out there it is just the dual solenoids which are slightly superior.

let you know in an hour or so :P i have a killer S15 here that i just finished installng a HKS EVC 6 (had it on dyno with various other controller before this on) into.... going on dyno now.

will keep you posted.

in my experience the stepper is as good as any other single sonelnoid controller out there it is just the dual solenoids which are slightly superior.

Great thanks mate, appreciate that and the information in your previous thread. Put it this way, i was 2seconds away from buying the power fc EBC kit! and what i waste that would have been.

Gotta love the look of the hks module huh

Just got one put in my car yesterday at IS Motor Racing. With the extra boost I picked up 20-30 KW from coming on boost all the way through the rev range to peak power at 6700RPM. My latest dyno graph is in the RB26 dyno results thread page 8

Thanks man, ill check out your dyno graph now. Seems like im gonna be real happy with this bit of kit.

Ok now i must admit the first few moments with this kit gave me the shits as the instructions were more confusing than helpful :blink: it turns out some-one had played with it while i was washing up.... a simple full system reset and all was good.

After the firsat few hiccups the unit is actually VERY easy to use, it holds boost extremely well and is nice and clear to view peak boost ect. Wiring was imple and THR, RPM and SPD was the only other input needed to make it fully functional. It allows for BOOST vs RPM, THR or SPD

the only down side is it could not match the GIZZMO unit (about 200rpm slower) for ramp rate even after countless differrent settings. i have attached a boost comparison. i would rate this unit as an 8/10. The GIZZMO unit (red line) had a slight problem holding boost up top on this run but subsequent runs had it fixed easily but i forgot to save the run :P for a $399 (full retail) boost controller it actually outgunned the HKS :banana:

On the attached Dyno sheet (ingore bottom specs) The thin red line is the GIZZMO unit and the orange is the HKS.

I really wanted to do a back to back with the IDIII (blitz) as it is my favourite due to past results but i was out of stock :( but based on these tests i reckon it would also ramp quicker than the EVC6 as ive upgraded a few GIZZMO controllers up to IDIII's (against my advise) and had zero improvements.

post-34927-1219387507_thumb.jpg

Hi Johnny & All

Sorry to hijack your thread. I also bought the EVC6 and even post up a thread bcos im not sure how to utilise the Boost Correction setup for partial throttle. Appreciate some help from those who has installed this unit.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ev...ap-t231124.html

Can help on what's the best settings for FUN 5 (THR & RPM) for T04E turbo im using which is laggy up to 4500rpm.

Thanks Trent for da update, i hope you worked out all the settings. Where do you get all your cars tuned? do u have a shop as i want a better tune on my power fc and someone to professionally install and tune da ebc.

I have been holding out on calling anyone because i want to find someone who will treat the car like it was their own.

btw driftmeister, i hope you work out all the issues in your car.

Thanks Trent for da update, i hope you worked out all the settings. Where do you get all your cars tuned? do u have a shop as i want a better tune on my power fc and someone to professionally install and tune da ebc.

I have been holding out on calling anyone because i want to find someone who will treat the car like it was their own.

btw driftmeister, i hope you work out all the issues in your car.

Yeah the setting were no dramas, just some-one with itchy fingers had a play whilst i was away cleaning my hands :) . i have my own shop and dyno facility. I have included some pics of the install. We fitted it into the ashtray (do lots of custom work) so it was hidden, after the install the lid sat over it and it all looked std. There are plenty of decent shops around what area are you?

post-34927-1219449867_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1219449898_thumb.jpg

Hey blokes,

I just thought id update this thread with some pics of the EVC 6 if anyone is interested in purchasing one in the near future.

I would like to comment on the quality as it seems very nice, solid and quite heavy. The screen is also very tasteful from an asthetics point of view

post-4266-1220453890_thumb.jpg

post-4266-1220453904_thumb.jpg

I will be having it installed at creatd ms on wednesday next week so i should be able to post a little review on its strengths and weaknesses.....compared and contrasted to the current EVC version 3.

That's nice install though it's hard to look at unless car is stationary. Had mine installed at the astray area below the player on 34GTT so it's slightly upright. Will load up pics soon.

yeah customer wanted it there, once it set though there is very little need to ever touch it.... the way i see how much boost is controlled by your right foot only the maximum is controlled by the boost controller :D

johnny, I will be shocked if the EVC 6 properly tuned is any better than an EVC 3 properly tuned. they both seem to use the same hardware to me. maybe the software has improved enough to make some improvement but I'm a little dubious.

johnny, I will be shocked if the EVC 6 properly tuned is any better than an EVC 3 properly tuned. they both seem to use the same hardware to me. maybe the software has improved enough to make some improvement but I'm a little dubious.

Hey baron, Im sure that your right but again i just like the look of the unit so im upgrading. I have a booking for next wednesday at creatd ms for intallation so hopefully i will be able to give you some results.

also anyone who is interested on the gains of pod filters on their gtr as well

oh and i will be selling the HKS EVC 3 for a really good price for anyone who needs a boost controller and is a little low on funds.

Johnny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...