Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

As stated, i need a starting point for my R32 gtst in regards to camber and toe setup etc.

Ive just installed the whiteline group buy kit with adjustable camber, and dont really want to rely on my local Pedders to set the car up, as they have limited experience with skylines. Also, my car has 350rwkw, so i really want to avoid traction issues with the set up.

The search is broken at the moment, and i was sure the info was in the whiteline group buy thread, but i cant find it.

Can anyone with experience point me in the right direction, so that i can tell the guys at Pedders what i want. Obviously i have little expereince when it comes to suspension and handling, so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Easy answer is get Pedders to install it all then go to a place with experience in setting up cars for the alignment and height adjustment. Personally the only critical thing that makes worlds of difference is the sub frame bushg installation and the way they have been orientated.

SydneyKid's group buys come with recommended settings for the street.

Also there are places like Traction Tyres in Rowville that are very skilled in the work they do :P

It will always be a compromise between cornering and straight line traction. Obviously get the best tyres you can get on the rear.

Try running -0.5 degrees camber on the rear and 2mm total toe-in and see how that goes. I don't think any amount of alignment is gonna allow it to put 350rwkw down to the road too well tho.

hehe best of luck..

i am going to run 0deg toe in or out and .5deg neg camber and thats with 270rwkw. and i will be using 255/40/17 federal 595 rs-r tyres. as nothing i have done up till now will keep the bastards on the tarmac...

Thanks for you input.

I really wish i understood how the different suspension geometrys affected the cars ability to put power down. I understand that the car squats and that negative camber becomes greater when squating, but i dont understand how toe in/out or caster affects it.

Anyone know of any sites i can view to get a better idea?

I feel stoopid.

Thanks for that; interesting read.

So a bit of toe in, and around half a degree of negative camber (for my application). I dont fully get castor yet, so ill have to read more. I wasnt aware that there was castor adjustment on my skyline; not that ive ever looked for it though.

Shaun.

350rwkw in a 32 gts, thats gotta be a hoot! what speed do you need to be going before you can give it WOT without wheelspin?!

I dunno, ive been too scared to look at the speedo when its at WOT yet!

Its a waste of time in first and second, and even in third ive got to feather the throttle, but when it does get traction its pretty amazing. Almost 600Nm of torque is the best bit. Ive only just had it tuned, so ill get used to it, but its pretty different to the RB20.

Ill have to hook up staggered boost control for each gear i think.

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...