Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Once you lower more than an inch you start getting close to 2degree negative camber. Which means you start scrubbing tyres so that's something that alot of newbies don't realise when they start doing this. Camber kits only improve about 1/2 to 3/4 of a degree. Having owned a low R33 gtst - I never wanted the hassles with the V & I gotta say despite the 33 being alot lower than the V it never bottomed out (mostly the firmer springs less travel ). Even standard V touches slightly on some speed humps. Reason why I never lowered mine and probably never will - don't want to compromise the ride either. Might look a little better but I'le pass.

^^^ you are 100% correct - our cars underbody/exhaust hang stupidly low relative to the height of the bumpers and the eyebrow heights. Hence why I have gone from stock -> coilovers -> Eibach super lows and am now going to go back to Z33 springs.

Having it nice and low at the back does allow you to tuck stupidly wide offset wheels though :)

post-669-0-41185000-1352542479_thumb.jpg

Not sure tbh. Obviously in that pic the car is heavily jacked up at the front. I am running SPC rear camber arms and my mechanic set it all up for me. Drives like it is on rails! I can take roundabouts at 60km/h no problems and I track it out at Mallala with good success (only 4 seconds slower than some guys in R33GTRs). Yet it is comfortable enough to be my work car/daily - even with 265/35/18s on 18"x10 +12 rims on the back :)

Andrew have you ever had police attention from that much poke? I got my Eibach springs fitted today & right side compression rod bush replaced & SPC rear camber kit fitted. Was also going to run 25mm spacers at the back and 20mm at the front.

Had to take the back spacers off as the poke was too much and i didn't like the idea of a defect. Anyway, i don't think i've ever posted pics of my car in here, so here it is.

First pic is the back with 25mm spacers on, can see the poke is too much but damn it looks sick.

533dzq.jpg

5xjq7b.jpg

14vo32h.jpg

nvnnd5.jpg

Andrew have you ever had police attention from that much poke? I got my Eibach springs fitted today & right side compression rod bush replaced & SPC rear camber kit fitted. Was also going to run 25mm spacers at the back and 20mm at the front.

Had to take the back spacers off as the poke was too much and i didn't like the idea of a defect. Anyway, i don't think i've ever posted pics of my car in here, so here it is.

First pic is the back with 25mm spacers on, can see the poke is too much but damn it looks sick.

533dzq.jpg

5xjq7b.jpg

14vo32h.jpg

nvnnd5.jpg

Told you that you'd love them. They look friggen wicked! How's the tide feel?

Should have let the springs settle before removing the spacers. Would have been pretty spot on. What were the original specs for rears?

The mild drop looks good.

That's what my mate said that i did it with, i'm going to take it back to his garage next weekend and try the spacers on the back again. You mean as in the original tyres? They were stock standard, 245/40/18

Thanks Tony, i'm heaps happy with it man :)

Yeah I agree - it will be spot on with the spacers ... and no I have never been picked on by cops - despite my front and rear bars hanging near the ground, HID/angel eye headlights, tinted rear lights, loud exhaust ... really my car should be a cop magnet, but I have never had ANY attention (touch wood). They don't even look at V35s here - they are too busy on the prowl for R33/R34s - you get anally reamed driving within 10km of the city any Friday or Saturday night if you own any import other than an R35/V35 :D

whats the rear wheel specs - width and offset? looks pretty sunken in w/o the spacers. You have plenty of room there.

20x10 + 25, 255/35/20. With the 25mm spacers on the back it was a perfect stance IMO, i might even give it another go on the weekend once the springs have settled. I'm going to get an allignment today too.

Yeah I agree - it will be spot on with the spacers ... and no I have never been picked on by cops - despite my front and rear bars hanging near the ground, HID/angel eye headlights, tinted rear lights, loud exhaust ... really my car should be a cop magnet, but I have never had ANY attention (touch wood). They don't even look at V35s here - they are too busy on the prowl for R33/R34s - you get anally reamed driving within 10km of the city any Friday or Saturday night if you own any import other than an R35/V35 :D

Damn that's good, i might go ahead with it hey considering my car is stock exterior apart from springs and wheels. I do a pretty good job staying away from police too lol.

look like another american based supplier. http://rohanawheels.com/

Forge is one of many - don't know anything about them other than the guy with the bagged A4 Avant being a distributor.

There is also Forged, ForgedSpecialties, Forgestar, Forgeline.....it's all becoming much of a muchness. Just got to hope quality stays key. In this style though, you can't go past the original and the best - HRE, DPE.

Forged Specialities, for example, has had some very unhappy customers....

Anyway, back OT - any reason why you've gone for a square setup (11" fronts) - fitment seems a little extreme and unbalanced from the rear.....

They're a nice wheel though. Keep em off the gutters! ;-)

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Been awhile since i've posted pics of my car, also just put new rims on.

Rohana RC10's 20x11 +10 all round with 245/35/20 tyres

IMG_1214.jpg

IMG_1207.jpg

IMG_1206.jpg

Nice concaveness specs!

That. Looks. Amazing.

Tell us more about the rims? They look like 3 piece modular ?

I believe Rohana's are not forged, but gravity cast or at the most low pressure cast. Maybe their other brand arms do forged wheels.

Vossens are the ones I'm seriously considering. Proper Euro style concavity for extreme VIP-spec Boss-ness

  • Vossens are alright and I believe they not forged either
  • DPE are the best in concavity wheels and are forged, mostly 3 piece
  • ADV1 is not too bad at concavity wheels, but are overly priced and would rather go with DPE
  • HRE only started making concave wheels recently I believe, interested to see what the designs look like as the quality is there with HRE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...