Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to kidnap your thread craz0 but this will only take a sec...

Steve-SST: Does the wolf plugin use the AFM for tuning?  If it won't idle without the MAP plumbed in, I'm assuming it doesn't?

Plugins come with a MAP tune but they have a MAF function but every ones used the MAP sensor.I will tune one on the MAF to get a base map if any one wants to use the MAF, but why bother.

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

I hooked up the Wolf 3D and it doesn't want to start everything seems to be fine, I pluged in the MAP sensor and nothing, the Injector lights on the side of the ECU dont flash at all. Anyone got any ideas?

The picture attached does anyone know what it is? when I have the Wolf pluged in it you can hear it motoring away with the reds on but with the original ECU in it doesn't do it.

  • 4 weeks later...

The PFC will work fine with the manual because it doesn’t need the auto ECU as for witch one to use well that’s up to you and what your tuner knows.

They both work well the PFC just doesn't talk to the Auto ECU and the Wolf does.

I was running a motec in my auto for a bit. The PCM gets its signal from the engine ECU for the lineal TPS and also the 3/4 throttle position for kick back. Its just a matter of bridging those across. OH, dont forget the speedo signal either.

  • 2 months later...

I can't get into diagnostics mode for the auto. I'm sure I followed the procedures.

I'm running a microtech lt-12 on a series 2 r33 auto. While it works fine when cold - as soon as it warms up the auto refuses to drop into first gear unless from a full stop, or I select it manually. Refuses to do kickdown reliably, it does kick down but not far enough. It always wants to run in 4th gear as well at low speeds. Seems like its always one gear two high.

I wonder if I need a series 1 auto computer?

Also on reading this thread - it seems I need to splice some wires, I havn't spliced anything

and been running for 2 months now.

I'll need to get more info on how to do this splicing.

  • 1 month later...

i dont know too much bout the skyline auto's but the toyota guys leave the standard comp in place and run another comp as a pigiback .... worked great in a mate cressida...

there is a guy that has built a unit (standalone from ecu) with two buttons upshift and downshift these shift the box for you and work great to but i dont know if it'll work with a skyline box (dont see why not)

only shit thing is it will always be like that as in you loose the "auto shift" most performance guyz dont mind though :)

i dont know too much bout the skyline auto's but the toyota guys leave the standard comp in place and run another comp as a pigiback .... worked great in a mate cressida...

there is a guy that has built a unit (standalone from ecu) with two buttons upshift and downshift these shift the box for you and work great to but i dont know if it'll work with a skyline box (dont see why not)

only shit thing is it will always be like that as in you loose the "auto shift" most performance guyz dont mind though :)

AP Engineering moddified the PFC to suite the auto Toyota JZX100's, so I would say that the Toyota Auto's would be easier to do. That or the Auto Toyota is more popular then a Auto Skyline and that's why they did it.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
Send me your specs and i will send you a good map with the Idle stepper setup also.

hey steve, do you mind if I get a map with the idle stepper setup as well?

Because ive plugged in my wolf and it runs the car fine, but it sometimes stalls on idle or at very low rpm. Just need a map so I can drive to the workshop safely :wassup: without having to worry when power steering is going to give out...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
×
×
  • Create New...