Jump to content
SAU Community

Is It Normal For Me To Be Getting Just Under 300km Out Of 50l?


Recommended Posts

Is this normal? 17L/100k is a bit ouch. I'd hate to think that I'm burning a hole in my pocket when I don't have to be.

The car's gone 100,000k but the previous owner drove it like it was a shopping trolley, so the engine should be in pretty top condition.

Assuming it isn't normal, what are some possible reasons I would be getting such low k's? Might be worth mentioning that it feels like it's running a bit more sluggish than it was when I got it several months back (but I could be imagining things).

Thanks.

Service the car see how you go, plus how do you drive, i get about 450k a tank on a highway run at 7 psi (syd to melb) but about 300k driving around town at 10 psi with the occassional bit of fun, and about 200k when im driving the Putty Rd at 14 psi with alot of RPM.

that is pretty bad. i would get 450ks when it was stock. now i get 400kish with light mods. what mods does the car have? might need a tune depending on what you got.

The guy who owned it before me installed a performance clutch and exhaust, but that's it, so it's pretty much stock... Can't imagaine that either of those would affect fuel economy right?

Service the car see how you go, plus how do you drive, i get about 450k a tank on a highway run at 7 psi (syd to melb) but about 300k driving around town at 10 psi with the occassional bit of fun, and about 200k when im driving the Putty Rd at 14 psi with alot of RPM.

Yeah that was my plan (to get it seviced), just thought i'd try to find out a bit about what it could be before I took it in.

Thanks for the responses.

r34 gtt here with light mods and tune and serviced and I get just under 300kms out of 50L ... that's city driving, 11.5psi and an occasional squirt here and there.. So that's about 17l/100kms

If I was driving it like a shopping trolley it would probably do 350kms out of 50l which is about 14l/100kms so I think there's nothing wrong with it.

Edited by Delta Force

many things could be causing this

-O2 Sensor

-Coolant Sensor

-Fuel Mixture

-Driving Style

-Injectors

-Filters

Could also be getting a wrong reeding on the cluster itself.

I would take it to a workshop as if you end up checking all of these you will end up wasting alot of time and money when it could only be one thing :P

hope i helped

I am facing a similar situation

Mine is similar car, R33 Sedan RB25DET......automatic tho

I get 14L/100kms driving without boost...... the factory specification is 11L/100kms

I find these two sites useful, want to share with you

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/us30232.htm

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2597/article.html

check ECU codes

check oxygen sensor

do a minor service, like change engine oil and oil filter

clean AFM with contact cleaner leaving without residue

check tire pressure*

change fuel filter

check for vacuum, boost leak (get a plastic container from BigW 80mm diameter and then put tire valve and plug it in to AFM, pump pressure, hear sound)

if you have money, get injectors cleaned and check/changed spark plugs......but is costly, so try a bottle of Nulon Fuel System Clean

gearbox oil...i heard that it will affect fuel consumption as well...correct me if wrong.

coolant temperature sensor, thermostat .....also possible.

update us if there is improvement

cheers

check ECU codes

check oxygen sensor

do a minor service, like change engine oil and oil filter

clean AFM with contact cleaner leaving without residue

check tire pressure*

change fuel filter

check for vacuum, boost leak (get a plastic container from BigW 80mm diameter and then put tire valve and plug it in to AFM, pump pressure, hear sound)

if you have money, get injectors cleaned and check/changed spark plugs......but is costly, so try a bottle of Nulon Fuel System Clean

gearbox oil...i heard that it will affect fuel consumption as well...correct me if wrong.

coolant temperature sensor, thermostat .....also possible.

Anything adding additional friction to the car will make its fuel economy worse. E.g. under-inflated tyres will have more contact friction with the road, hence worse economy... If you oil is sludgy and full-of-crap then it is possible for it to slow down things in the box/engine/wherever and increase economy...

I have a 235rwkw r33 and I get round 500km per tank when driving pretty normally, 550 in the highway... i had worse economy before I had the engine tuned.

I have replaced my O2 sensor, replaced the vaccum lines, service with good oils every 5000km, check my tyre pressure once a week (or maybe once every couple when i'm lazy). Checking the ECU for fault codes is pretty important.

what tyre pressure is ideal for 18's on an r34 gtt ? Right now I think I'm at 32psi which i believe was what the tyre place recommended..

I'm currently trying to go for a couple of weeks on 'cruise mode' only ie. as little boost as possible by shifting prior to 3000rpm and taking it easy in general. If it turns out I can get 350-400kms out of 50l I'll know there's nothing wrong with the car and it's just my driving style ...

Heck it's one thing I enjoy and to hell with the extra $100 in fuel money a month if that's what it takes to have some fun!

I'm still running with the original RE01s that came with my car and I put in 37lb in my 18s Denis.

Back to the thread,

With suburban (but not city driving), I'm easily getting 500Km/60l = 12l/100Km

HKS F-Con Pro-V ECU.

Envy Dyno showed that my A/F ratio was running well.

Hope you get to the bottom of the problem soon eh?

Tez :P

I've done 170Kms since refuelling and it's just under half full now ... so my economy based on this is still 16-17l/100Kms and that's with very early shifting (2500rpm), no boosting (other when absolutely necessary) ...

So yeah I think I have a problem somewhere as the economy should be a lot better when driving around like a granny..

I've done 170Kms since refuelling and it's just under half full now ... so my economy based on this is still 16-17l/100Kms and that's with very early shifting (2500rpm), no boosting (other when absolutely necessary) ...

So yeah I think I have a problem somewhere as the economy should be a lot better when driving around like a granny..

170km isnt very good, id wanna see at least 200 out of half a tank. My last 2 tanks im seeing around 230 half a tank and the last fill was 475 at it was dead empty, worked out to be 11.7/100 and thats driving every day to work in peak hour on Boost 98. This tank its a little worse , done about 435 and she needs filling thats on 100 octane.

i am on my first tank in my r33 gts-t.. just creeped under half a tank.. at 320km's

car is 100% stock!

bottom half of tank might go quicker tho.. so will have to wait :D

I'd be happy with 16l/100Kms economy if that meant my normal driving ie. boost when I feel like it and not think about fuel. In fact that's the economy I was getting before my last service when the oil and spark plugs got changed ... so I will be taking the car back to see if they can find the issue. It could be a dead O2 sensor or something like that. 16l/100kms when driving around at 2000rpm just isn't cool :|

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...