Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ran a Lakewood scattershield on one of my high reving manual small block chevs a few years ago. They dont go over the bell housing they ARE the bell housing. Made of about 4-5mm pressed steel plate and theres a simmilar flat engine plate that goes up against the block. When or if a flywheel/clutch lets go it sort of holds it in place. A very good investment on hard turning engines.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So JB knows he had a bad batch of plates, but hasnt contacted his customers who's clutches came from the bad batch to warn them? Can anyone confirm if this is the situation or not?

If its true, i consider it irresponsible and unethical, considering the potential to loose limbs.

Noel,

Ive always had good experience with Direct Clutch in brisbane. For the rb30 im building i dont know if ill go a nismo/orc or go back and speak to Direct.

Tough choice, the clutch of theirs i have now has copped it hard for over 5 years and is still going strong. Was also strong enought to wear out the rb20 box

cheers, mic

Edited by Gts30t

Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :)

Edited by FineLine
Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :(

not good to hear at all mate... that box is here if you need it

Some facts...The 3 clutches that have exited for differing reasons....one was a fractured flywheel one was a pressure plate and one was a clutch cover.

The flywheel one was a STD flywheel that had been fractured long before a Jim Berry clutch was fitted.

The other two im unable to give an accurate comment on.

For the record i no longer use Jim Berry clutches but would recommend that if anyone use them that they have the flywheel and pressure plate X-rayed before sending it to Jim. That way you can be confident that the product you recieve back will be up to the task and give both yourself and Jim piece of mind that your not sending him inferior materials to begin with.

Glad no injuries were sustained in this incident.

  • 3 months later...

Holy Crap! You are really lucky it was just the cover and not the flywheel aswell! Almost looks as if the cover was out of balance and threw its self apart.

Really sorry to hear about it, and not good news for a clutch builder either!

good one ray - see what you did now!

sorry, i got a bad habit of doing that. i just stuble across threads like these while searching and its amazing how many of them never have a posted conclusion.

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Approx 480hp at wheels

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Approx 480hp at wheels

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Id like you to touch back on point 2 please.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...