Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ran a Lakewood scattershield on one of my high reving manual small block chevs a few years ago. They dont go over the bell housing they ARE the bell housing. Made of about 4-5mm pressed steel plate and theres a simmilar flat engine plate that goes up against the block. When or if a flywheel/clutch lets go it sort of holds it in place. A very good investment on hard turning engines.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So JB knows he had a bad batch of plates, but hasnt contacted his customers who's clutches came from the bad batch to warn them? Can anyone confirm if this is the situation or not?

If its true, i consider it irresponsible and unethical, considering the potential to loose limbs.

Noel,

Ive always had good experience with Direct Clutch in brisbane. For the rb30 im building i dont know if ill go a nismo/orc or go back and speak to Direct.

Tough choice, the clutch of theirs i have now has copped it hard for over 5 years and is still going strong. Was also strong enought to wear out the rb20 box

cheers, mic

Edited by Gts30t

Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :)

Edited by FineLine
Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :(

not good to hear at all mate... that box is here if you need it

Some facts...The 3 clutches that have exited for differing reasons....one was a fractured flywheel one was a pressure plate and one was a clutch cover.

The flywheel one was a STD flywheel that had been fractured long before a Jim Berry clutch was fitted.

The other two im unable to give an accurate comment on.

For the record i no longer use Jim Berry clutches but would recommend that if anyone use them that they have the flywheel and pressure plate X-rayed before sending it to Jim. That way you can be confident that the product you recieve back will be up to the task and give both yourself and Jim piece of mind that your not sending him inferior materials to begin with.

Glad no injuries were sustained in this incident.

  • 3 months later...

Holy Crap! You are really lucky it was just the cover and not the flywheel aswell! Almost looks as if the cover was out of balance and threw its self apart.

Really sorry to hear about it, and not good news for a clutch builder either!

good one ray - see what you did now!

sorry, i got a bad habit of doing that. i just stuble across threads like these while searching and its amazing how many of them never have a posted conclusion.

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Approx 480hp at wheels

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Approx 480hp at wheels

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Id like you to touch back on point 2 please.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...