Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ran a Lakewood scattershield on one of my high reving manual small block chevs a few years ago. They dont go over the bell housing they ARE the bell housing. Made of about 4-5mm pressed steel plate and theres a simmilar flat engine plate that goes up against the block. When or if a flywheel/clutch lets go it sort of holds it in place. A very good investment on hard turning engines.

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So JB knows he had a bad batch of plates, but hasnt contacted his customers who's clutches came from the bad batch to warn them? Can anyone confirm if this is the situation or not?

If its true, i consider it irresponsible and unethical, considering the potential to loose limbs.

Noel,

Ive always had good experience with Direct Clutch in brisbane. For the rb30 im building i dont know if ill go a nismo/orc or go back and speak to Direct.

Tough choice, the clutch of theirs i have now has copped it hard for over 5 years and is still going strong. Was also strong enought to wear out the rb20 box

cheers, mic

Edited by Gts30t

Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :)

Edited by FineLine
Well heres the damge bill from that nano second of shit and disaster

Gearbox...chopped

clutch pressure plate andflywheel....Chopped

Engine.....chopped due to a chunk being blasted from the back of the block

dump.....choppped

starter motor.....chopped

clutch slave......chopped

bellhousing spacer plate....chopped

Braided clutch line....chopped

turbo water line.....chopped

Tore down the engine on the weekend so we can get the crank and jun pump xrayed. I dont anticipate any props but i am not taking any chances.

Now the madness begins all over again.

Oh happy Days! :(

not good to hear at all mate... that box is here if you need it

Some facts...The 3 clutches that have exited for differing reasons....one was a fractured flywheel one was a pressure plate and one was a clutch cover.

The flywheel one was a STD flywheel that had been fractured long before a Jim Berry clutch was fitted.

The other two im unable to give an accurate comment on.

For the record i no longer use Jim Berry clutches but would recommend that if anyone use them that they have the flywheel and pressure plate X-rayed before sending it to Jim. That way you can be confident that the product you recieve back will be up to the task and give both yourself and Jim piece of mind that your not sending him inferior materials to begin with.

Glad no injuries were sustained in this incident.

  • 3 months later...

Holy Crap! You are really lucky it was just the cover and not the flywheel aswell! Almost looks as if the cover was out of balance and threw its self apart.

Really sorry to hear about it, and not good news for a clutch builder either!

good one ray - see what you did now!

sorry, i got a bad habit of doing that. i just stuble across threads like these while searching and its amazing how many of them never have a posted conclusion.

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

I'd be interested to know too.. i have a JB sitting in the shed waiting for me to put it in......................

How much horsepower was involved in this???

Approx 480hp at wheels

Jim's clutches are second to none, 99% of these failures are because of external reasons and not fault of the clutch.

Be sure to

1: use proper nissan genuine clutch and flywheel bolts and washers

2: use the correct amount of dowel locating pins on the pressure plate

3: make sure your clutch & flywheel is crack free (x raying is the way to go)

4: if possible use a billet steel crome molley flywheel (ask jim to supply)

i cant remember what else but this will give you an idea. they are rated to high horse power applications, anthony martook uses them in his drag cars

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Approx 480hp at wheels

1: Done

2: Done

3: You'd have to ask Jim about that as HE supplied the clutch and it was a standard SECO cover that he modified.

4: Done

You can be absolutely certain the clutch in Anthony's car is not the same as this one.

I'd just like to touch back on point 3. The SECO cover he used has a pressure plate made of cast iron. Every pressure plate made after the mid to late 90's is made from a Ductile cast iron.

Xraying it will tell you this but you would assume he doesn't use inferior parts that were practically banned from this type of clutch for this very reason. Cast iron is riddled with cracks. It's in the nature of casting it. He uses second hand normal cast iron pressure plates in all of the full monty's he makes. They are ALL ticking time bombs.

Id like you to touch back on point 2 please.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...