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33 Gtr Oil Filter Change


Adz2332
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Have searched and found a couple of threads around but nothing real step by stepish.

Need help on changing my oil filter in the gtr 33. looks in a hard spot etc.

any advice?

what needs to be removed?

step by step??

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Hiya,

There's other threads about this.. but... hey... it's cool...

Prepare by having 5litres of new oil handy (probably same grade and brand as what you have now eg 10W-40 or similar)

and new sump plug washer (of which I'd buy a few).

Have a new Oil Filter ready of the correct spec.

There's a type of Adaptable Oil Filter Holder/Wrench with a socket on the end of it. This is easier than trying to undo the filter from the side. Have a socket wrench with the right socket end to fit the oil filter wrench

i) drive the car for about 5mins to circulate the oil (and it's not 'too hot' either, according to Goldilocks)

ii) I use specially obtained ultra low ramps to drive up on.

Even if you use a loooow jack, it's wise to put the car on stands for safety

iii) Place an oil catch can underneath the sump plug with most of its diameter located in the same direction as the plug

iv) Undo the plug to let the oil out and put the plug to one side. Check that the oil coming out is black and not milky.

v) Dispose of the sump washer or leave it in the old oil

vi) Undo the Oil Cap at the top of the engine and wipe away any old oil. Also check for sludge around the inside of the neck.

Hopefully, there isn't any.

vii) When the oil draining out of the bottom is just about done, take the oil filter off as well.

viii) Take the plastic wrapper off the new filter and wipe just a little paraffin grease around the rubber collar.

ix) Screw the oil filter on till hand tight. If any residual oil drops onto a cross member, wipe it off lest it drip all over the place.

Nissan R33 GTRs can have a ridge that holds oil while the car is standing still. Wipe other bits oil away too.

x) Put the new sump washer onto the plug and screw it back on. If the washer is copper, you can screw it tight. If it's made of fibrous matter, don't overtighten it, lest it forms a hairline crack and leaks later.

xi) Your Car Manual will tell you how much oil your car will take but don't put it all in yet. Just fill up the engine with oil till the dipstick shows the oil level to be in grid area.

xii) After you put the oil cap back on, and take the car off the stands/ramps, drive it for about 5 mins and check the oil level.

xiii) You'll need to put in extra because the oil filter will now be completely filled as well.

Finis.

For top ups: if you've used synthetic oil, you should also top up with the same synthetic. Same with semi...

You don't want sludge.

And for the environment, take the old oil to your friendly mechanic for disposal.

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- Remove cam cover cap before cracking sump bolt; displacement means oil empties quicker

- The old copper washer is generally good enough

- Engine oil, not paraffin wax will do

Expect to see higher oil pressure with new oil

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  • 2 years later...

I bought an RB26DETT filter from Sprint Auto Parts for my R33 GTR and when I got home I found it was physically somewhat bigger. (The Cooper part number is WZ145 interchangeable with Z145A.) I have to obviously buy a special remover for this as stated above. The thing is the filter I got was listed for, I think, an R32 GTR but there was nothing listed for the R33 GTR. The codes on the filter in my car are DLXA and V91110102. Can anybody tell me which one I need?

Thanks.

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R32 GTR uses Z145a, R34 GTR uses Z442 (i think thats right).. both are same thread, just the Z442 isn't as tall and has slightly smaller width. Ryco recommend the Z145a for the R33 anyway iirc.

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since ive changed my oil , the dipstick hasent showed it in the Grid area, usually low, but i thought that couldn't be right i put 4.5 liters in, that was 3 months ago.

And today i added the rest of the oil left, about 1ltr, it still showed it under the grid, almost on low. Dose the car need to be on dead level ground for a correct reading?

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Yes you should always check your oil on level ground. Its a fluid so it will change depending on how the car is sitting. A garage or service station or something should get you out of trouble.

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The oil filter is in a very tight spot under the plenum. Mine was stuck. Best investment I made was getting a 3 pronged 'claw-like' oil filter remover from autobarn, the one that you can put a rachet at the end that tightens as you turn. It only takes afew millimetres of movement before you can hand unscrew the filter.

I'm weak as a fly and my sump plug was also way too tight, took it to mechanic who cracked it open for free.

Made a bit of a mess taking the filter off but it was well worth it.

Note: loosen the filter first before you drain all of your oil!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so the filter is the same for every R33 model. Sorry for the n00b question before.

Would there be any difference between the Ryco and Blitz?

The Ryco Z145A is only $10.50 from Supercheap where as the Blitz B-2259 from Just Jap is $45?

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