Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www1.biz.biglobe.ne.jp/~GT-R/autech32.html

have a look at this if your interested in the Autech RB26DE

it has some damn nice extractors, 6 individual throttles(!)

has an r32 body shell, though its a bit heavy for my like'n, 1480 kg

that figure sounds more like an r32 GTr

Im a huge na skyline fan, i would freakin love this car !!

  • Replies 321
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oh and by the way, the basic specs are (to the best of my ability)

4580~1695~1360 mm

ƒƒzƒC[ƒ‹ƒx[ƒX„@@@@@2615 mm

ƒweight„@@@@@@@@1480kg

ƒengine„@@@@@@RB26DE

ƒpower stroke„@@@@@@@@220PS /6800rpm

ƒtork„@@@@@@@25.0kgm/5200rpm

ƒwheels„@@@@@@@@@205/55R16 88V

For us engols speakers:

It goes with 32 R and as for NISSAN which is overtaken, 4 door editions GT whose request from the part owner extra troop is many - it announces 4 doors Gts-4 of 32 where even R you can say based AUTECH VERSION. With the photograph it is understood a little and perhaps, the ‚¸ leprosy, but the ornament has become SKYLINE26. On the rear the spoiler for 4 doors is attached with option.

Å‚o—Í:220PS/6800rpm

Å‘åƒgƒ‹ƒN:25.0kgm/5200rpm.

The rich torque which extremely occurs low from revolution, made nimble takeoff acceleration possible. The power which reacts to linear in throttle work. Passing power peak, the smooth blowing rising which continues. It is low, you can taste the good quality of the natural air intake engine which reacts sensitively to the movement of the accelerator from the rotary limits to the high rotary limits. Basic mechanism the ‚× - to designate RB26DETT which has the result as a racing engine as ƒX, the intake, as for exhaust, the camshaft and the piston etc. the Otech special made. Special tuning for this engine is included in the control computer. As for exhaust manifold stainless steel make isometric flexible pipe. Exhaust interference is avoided, charm twin cam sound is given Qin coming out. Actualization of the high braking efficiency where it corresponds to the power efficiency which is superior. In order reduction of unsprung weight and to increase heat dissipation characteristic, the caliper of the ƒAƒmƒŒƒ~ alloy make - with it has done. Front opposition 4 piston, rear opposition 2 piston. As for the brake rotor, the turbo fin model large-sized ventilated disk which has the sliding surface pin hole. As for rotor diameter, front: 296mm and rear: 292mm. Controlling this powerful braking effort effectively is ABS (the anti lock brake system). With control of synthesis with the drive system, ABS original antiskid efficiency and the braking efficiency which in the road surface which the snow ˜G and the like it is easy to slide are superior are shown. As for suspension layout 4 wheel multiple link suspension. It has made the specification whose rigidity is high making provision for the increase of 4WD conversion and suspension input. In addition Bridgestone EXPEDIA S-01 (205/55 R16 88v) you prepared in the private tire. As for tuning of suspension system, low as for the medium speed limits the cornering efficiency where in the high-speed limits are high from the first it has been compatible the riding comfort which is superior beautifully. The sense of security and the mild riding comfort which feeling inhales to the last exactly in the road surface and is attached. If crew-member everyone tastes, there is a real value of this underside in very the sense of relief which is not.

(From catalog part excerpt)

Guest neoGT-25

THAT LOOKS MAD!

and thanks for the advice guys... so to get it right, the 2.25" would be more responsive than the 2.5"? could you guys please explain? :)

and also should i get stainless?

thanks all... byes ;)

PS: Im getting a datto 1600 as a runaround car :burnout: (haha ill put a SR20DET in it ;)) not really :)

well the exaust should be stainless because alot of water vapour goes through the exaust, and if it isnt rust proof then eventually you will have leaks in the pipe work, this will make the car loud as hell.

While gettin the 2.25 will increase response over the 2.5 because it has less back pressure, or in other words it should have a bit more torque down low in the rev range. This addition of torque will make the car more fun and responsive to drive. It will also has less drone in the cabin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...