Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thinking about a bit of track action, but also concerned about distance driving in the warmer months.

my current relocater has a thermostat in it.... have noticed on a couple long trips and also after some sprirted driving the temp has climbed north of 90 degrees.

normal city driving, and short squirts in the hills, it stays on 80 degrees

def keen to have a thermostat in new setup

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4116689
Share on other sites

i can prob mix and match fittings to plumb up to the B&M oil coolers and thermostats i sell.

pm me if you wish to discus

PM sent :)

I have a cheap-ass Just Jap one in my 34 and it does the job just nicely. Was under $300 from memory.

nice.. that is about as much as i want to spend rly

one question how much oil would i expect to use for an oil change with the cooler in ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4116937
Share on other sites

I use just under 6 litres with the cooler.

I make sure I jack up the passenger side of the car nice and high to drain most of the oil out of the cooler on an oil change too. Then I unplug the cas and turn over the engine for 30 seconds before starting the car to prime everything up and refill the oil cooler. Works a treat!

No you are wrong Cronic - I didn't really understand your post - but the cooler your engine, the better it will run and the less chance of detonation. Hence an aftermarket radiator to help keep water cool, and an engine oil cooler is a necessity for an Skyline that gets driven on hot days imho. Regarding the engine thickness vs temperature - once your oil is over a certain 'warm up' temperature (around 100 degrees) it maintains its highest value viscocity. So it will maintain the same 40W viscocity (in say a 10W-40 oil like I use) whether the oil is 100 degrees or 150 degrees. Obviously keeping the engine oil near 100 degrees even in hot weather or when the car is being thrashed is highly desirable - hence why an oil cooler is a very good idea.

FYI I have been using Nulon 15W-50 oil for the last couple of services and have just changed to 10W-40 to see if there is any difference. As it turns out, my car likes it heaps better - less cam rattles at startup (and in fact at all times), and the engine seems to rev a bit smoother.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4117073
Share on other sites

That link didn't work, but unfortunately you would have to get a different variety sandwich plate to connect to your motor, as all you want is an inlet and outlet - no hole in the middle for a filter. The normal style sandwich plate could then be used as a relocator. Best to buy a kit with a relocation kit provided - you need an extra hose and the capped off engine mount.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4117078
Share on other sites

That link didn't work, but unfortunately you would have to get a different variety sandwich plate to connect to your motor, as all you want is an inlet and outlet - no hole in the middle for a filter. The normal style sandwich plate could then be used as a relocator. Best to buy a kit with a relocation kit provided - you need an extra hose and the capped off engine mount.

the relocation kit that i have has a plate like you describe at the motor... im not sure if we are saying the same thing here... but can i put the sandwich plate for the cooler at the end of the relocation kit and then screw the filter into the sandwich plate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4117131
Share on other sites

i was thinking about getting an oil cooler awhile back. i reakon get one with a thermostat, i read that if your oil runs too cool its bad for your motor. im guessing you planning on getting out on the track?
I use just under 6 litres with the cooler.

I make sure I jack up the passenger side of the car nice and high to drain most of the oil out of the cooler on an oil change too. Then I unplug the cas and turn over the engine for 30 seconds before starting the car to prime everything up and refill the oil cooler. Works a treat!

No you are wrong Cronic - I didn't really understand your post - but the cooler your engine, the better it will run and the less chance of detonation. Hence an aftermarket radiator to help keep water cool, and an engine oil cooler is a necessity for an Skyline that gets driven on hot days imho. Regarding the engine thickness vs temperature - once your oil is over a certain 'warm up' temperature (around 100 degrees) it maintains its highest value viscocity. So it will maintain the same 40W viscocity (in say a 10W-40 oil like I use) whether the oil is 100 degrees or 150 degrees. Obviously keeping the engine oil near 100 degrees even in hot weather or when the car is being thrashed is highly desirable - hence why an oil cooler is a very good idea.

FYI I have been using Nulon 15W-50 oil for the last couple of services and have just changed to 10W-40 to see if there is any difference. As it turns out, my car likes it heaps better - less cam rattles at startup (and in fact at all times), and the engine seems to rev a bit smoother.

lol no worries, I was just reffering to the above comment in bold!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4117811
Share on other sites

Ah sorry mate, now I get what you are saying.

There is some truth in that comment though - when talking about REALLY cold oil - hence why a thermo driven sandwich plate is best - then it stays closed until the oil is up to temp, then opens and runs the oil thru the cooler.

I don't have a thermostat setup, but wish I did.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4120080
Share on other sites

Just to add a thermostat isn't really necessary unless you live in a cold climate place or for some reason you run really thick visc oil, as it will still get up to temp in almost the same amount of time without it. Also, most thermos don't fully close they stay partially open so as to stop air pockets forming.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4120573
Share on other sites

the relocation kit that i have has a plate like you describe at the motor... im not sure if we are saying the same thing here... but can i put the sandwich plate for the cooler at the end of the relocation kit and then screw the filter into the sandwich plate?

I'm still curious about this... because the sandwich plate basicaly mimics the shape of where the filter joins the block, does anyone see any issues with me fitting the sandwich plate to the end of the relocation kit, and then fitting the filter behind the sandwich plate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4120707
Share on other sites

It is really hard to understand exactly what you are saying mate - can you draw some pics? If I were you I would take what you got to a workshop, and ask them what you need to complete the system.

At the end of the day, as long as the system is sealed and oil can flow freely, you can do pretty much what you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235057-oil-cooler/#findComment-4121035
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...