Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Short version of story:

Been yellow stickered. They don't believe this is the stock turbo. Have to prove it, otherwise have to have emissions test.

So, here's the pictures. The car is a 1989 cefiro. Still has rb20 in it. I'm pretty sure the stock turbo is the T28, but I can't find any markings on the turbo to prove it. Apparently the huge amounts of rust isn't enough proof of its authenticity. I can read two of the markings. One has X19A on it, and the other has 2IU. No idea what they mean though.

img2143fd0.jpg

img2140kj4.jpg

img2137qg5.jpg

anything I should be looking for to prove that it's the stock turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235504-what-turbo-do-i-have/
Share on other sites

Short version of story:

Been yellow stickered. They don't believe this is the stock turbo ......Apparently the huge amounts of rust isn't enough proof of its authenticity.

The sad thing is these people are out there breeding :P You've been done by a complete c$#t, I'd ask for proof of their IQ (or lack of)

f**ked up, isn't it. They say because I have a blowoff valve on, that I OBVIOUSLY have a larger turbo installed too, therefore needing an emissions test.

Just called up a place called TurboTech, in perth, and they say that the stock turbo on all rb20det's is a hitachi HT18. Any confirmation on this?

Just talked to a nissan dealership person over east, who assured me that almost all the nissan turbos are Garrett. However they have used Hitachi on a few. No real help there. Come on, surely someone has to have a reliable source of information as to what the stock ceffy turbo is!

NEW UPDATE:

Here's a list of the responses I've got:

Turbo Tech: hitachi ht18

C-red: Garrett T3

Tanaga Motorsport: maybe T28, not sure though

MTQ turbos: t3 t4 hybrid maybe

Xspeed: hitachi. he sounded very sure of himself

Kensei Garage: garrett t3 (maybe)

Edited by scottrichards

The people who hand out the permits. the Tech department. They're the ones who want proof. Can't really get much better pics than that without taking it out ey. That's alot of effort. And i'm not too much of a fan of effort. I'm taking it to a turbo place tomorrow (hopefully) who will be able to identify it for me.

I'm also just going to remove the blowoff, so incase I don't have a stock turbo, they don't have any reason to suspect that it isn't stock at all. Removing the BOV will be a shit of a job though, as they bolted it together, THEN welded it on, making getting to the alan key bolts near impossible.

Jerks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...