Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chasing some info on RB26 valves, I'm in the process of a solid rebuild after lunching a ceramic turbo. Forged pistons, bearings etc, bottom end is all together.

After a quick look at the head though, the valves have been damaged.

Now, the problem, I've lurked around the internets for hours now, and searched these forums from top to bottom, including all the sponsors, nobody seems to sell valves.

I found one standard set, second hand...

What kind of valves have people used in their rebuilds, and where did you find em?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235579-rb26-valves-for-rebuild/
Share on other sites

naprec valves are good and cheap. I don't know who sells them in aus, I bought mine in japan, but I'm sure you can get them here too.

ive heard that the naprec valves run a smaller than standard size stem which could cause possible reliability problems in the long term with big revs..

i assume you've got the 1.5mm oversize..

so how are yours holding together and how long have they been in the car?

Another group buy coming along Andrew? (id be in :P )

F%#$K no! never getting involved in one of them again!!

i spoke to my engine builder today and it looks like i'm going to run with standard valves. tho i may still do springs and retainers.

anyone ever use super tech?

i've just ordered the full supertech catalogue (dual springs & ti retainers, guides & OS valves) from the states for a mates motor i'm building, should arrive in the next few days

prices i got were:

valves full set (1mm SS inlet, 1mm Inconel exhaust) - US$499/set

dual springs & ti retainers - US$459/set

manganese bronze guides - US$120/set

total including shipping in aussie $$'s was $1466.12

make sure the guy installing the oversize valves inserts a new valve seat as the std wont cope with the oversize valve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...