Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey hey, ive got a new set of cp forged pistons im going to drop in my built up 25/26 and was wondering if its worth gettin them ceramic coated or not. i know that it helps keep the heat up the top and is meant to work well but i have also heard cases of the coating chipping off which can score the bore and be very nasty. anyone else had good/bad experiences with this? quoted about $50 per piston, sound about right?? cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/235701-ceramic-coated-pistons/
Share on other sites

Mmmm, cant wait to get my Mahle pistons :)

hurry up and send them out customs you hording f#$@ks!!

hmmm mine (26) are incoming too, gonna have a play. Hope they fit better than the SR ones i got sen for a customers SR.... had to notch em for the oil squirters NOT FKN HAPPY worlds dearest pistons (if time was money) :) .

Edited by URAS

hoping for around 500rwhp.. but yeah its not something i really wanted to spend cash on if i didnt really have to. especially if theres any chance of it chipping off and ruining my engine, not something i would like to pay for lol

might skip it if you guys really dont think its needed, cheers.

hmmm mine (26) are incoming too, gonna have a play. Hope they fit better than the SR ones i got sen for a customers SR.... had to notch em for the oil squirters NOT FKN HAPPY worlds dearest pistons (if time was money) :) .

Should have mine in the next two days, (customs held them up and $150 was paid to them ) ;)

didnt actually spend all that much on them (Mahles and Pauter), was about 500 more than getting a set of eagle rods and cp pistons,

Should begin building the motor in about a week or so.

you certainly dont need it.

I cant think of one 500rwhp (370rwkw) car that uses coated pistons.

sweeet as, all i needed to know. it really had nothing to do with the power level, more so keeping the heat where it should be is what interested me. but think ill save the $300 after hearing everyones opinions, cheers.

The new MAHLE SR piston set rocked up yesterday and they have addressed the clearnace issues.... killer pistons, much better than the %^ pistions every one seems to like using ATM in their RB's.

post-34927-1221615341_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1221615347_thumb.jpg

The new MAHLE SR piston set rocked up yesterday and they have addressed the clearnace issues.... killer pistons, much better than the %^ pistions every one seems to like using ATM in their RB's.

they look just like mine :happy:

post-31456-1221615527_thumb.jpg

The new MAHLE SR piston set rocked up yesterday and they have addressed the clearnace issues.... killer pistons, much better than the %^ pistions every one seems to like using ATM in their RB's.

Being an SR Piston, don't they need a notch in the skirt for the oil squirter?

Cheers

Marty

Being an SR Piston, don't they need a notch in the skirt for the oil squirter?

Cheers

Marty

yeah the old ones had long skirts and needed modding (see 4 posts up) but the new ones are the same overall length (crown to base) as the std pistons were from crown to notch... the MAHLE have a 5mm ish shorter skirt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...