Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Having a huge cleanout of 32 GTR parts. All parts are in Melb. Frieght at buyer expense. I will get sizes and weight for you but you have to price the freight up and I will confirm it once you actually want it.

Gauges and Electronics

Apexi Electronic Oil pressure and Exhaust temp gauges and senders with max warning $300 pair

HKS Vane Controller - Very Rare and wanted.

Deletes the need for afm's and can control fuel rates $500

HKS Turbo timer $80 plugs straight into dash loom

Blitz and Mines ECU's $100 each

Engine/Drivetrain

Front drive shafts (need boots) $100 pair

Rear diff and drive shafts $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Blitz external venting BOV's $175 pair or $200 with std gtr pipe to mount on.

Grex Remote Oil Filter re-locator $150

3 GTR radiators $80 each Same as gtst.

Fuel tank with hangers/pump/sender/filler neck $250

RB26dett head with hang-ons, covers, turbos $1250

Complete block, crank, pistons pumps etc $600 Original bore

Sump with diff $250

Might sell some parts of engine for right money.

R34 GTR intercooler in excellent condition $300

Suspension/Brakes

Apexi Shocks height and damper adjustable $350 not to hard-nice

Front GTR calipers and 296mm drilled disks $225

Tein HA height and damper shocks and springs $500

324mm slotted disks-new, spacer kit to run 324mm disks and overhauled calipers and braided lines with heaps of set used performance pads Upgrading to big 355mm brembo's. Best upgrade you can do without spending thousands of dollars. Almost as good as GTR brembos. Same pad width just looses 5mm on height at the bottom. No brake fade running 1.23 at Sandown and 1.52 and PI or 20 min sessions running 1.10's at Wakefield with a few laps to cool engine oil down in the middle.

Will fit R32 gtst, gtr and R33 gtst

$650

Interior

Rear seat $150

Dash board VGC $125

Dash boards. Small boubles in front of passenger $40 each

2 sets nissan floor mats $80 each

Body

RH rear quarter window $60

LH door window w/tint $40

GTR fuel cap door $50

Rear Bumper reo $60

Original Windscreen $100

Door LH complete $75 no trim

RH door $30 bare

Few mirrors $30 each

Also have a shell for sale $2000 rolling with heaps of hang ons. Has import approval under old scheme so can be complied.

Please don't ask for other stuff as this all I have. No swaps either or low ballers. I won't get back to you if you offer stupid prices. Will budge on some stuff but no others. If you know what it looks like please don't ask for pics for silly things.

Some stuff is back up for sale due to time wasters so if I told you it was sold and its relisted I still have it.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers Mat. Sorry only selling the whole set. I need the money from the whole set for disks and pads for the upgrade.

Kevind but the shell and you can have the door rubber.

Bris you dirty world traveller. I can hear your car whining and howling in your garages corner like a neglected dog. Holding expecially for you.

I have the hinges for it but no internals. Hense the price. I should have a LH mirror but will need to check.

hey mate

what year is the crank from?

was after a late model for the oil pump drive issue?

cheers

No idea what year the crack is from. Its stilll in the bolck atm. What do I need to look for??? Don't really want to have to remove it as I don't have the space to store it once its apart.

Cheers Badgtr34. I'll get you the pics you requested soon. Had to remove the cover off one of the gauges to replace the globe so I need to get it back together before I take the photos.

I'll see whats involved to get the oil pump off.

hi, could i have pics (both front and rear) of the GTR intercooler? and what size is it also

Cheers

The intercooler is 60x300x600 and is very light weight compared to earlier models. They are a more efficient at cooling than the r32 and r33 gtr intercooolers. I am to believe these can cool/flow well enough to suppport upto 350ish rwkw

It a little dirty in the photo becasue it hasn't been clean since I removed it from the car a few months ago.

post-1670-1221359064_thumb.jpg

post-1670-1221359094_thumb.jpg

The diff came in a shell i bought. I removed the rear cover and the gears are in perfect condition-no spalling. There was also no metal paste sitting in the bottom of the housing. From what I can see it appears to be a very good diff that hasn't copped a hard time. The oil was very clean so I'm guessing the clutchs haven't been wearing. It turns freely with no binding.

hey buddy,

I'll come buy the rear diff and drive shafts now. Im at the shop so you can call me on 9338-5277 and we can talk details.

Regards Dave

Sorry. I cannot edit the first post. The rear diff doesn't come with the drive shafts. They are being sold seperately.

It is meant to read

Rear diff $250

Rear drive shafts $150

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hello! does anyone have a schematic that shows how to test the blower motor resistor for the vac system? i believe the part# is 27761-15U00. I think the resistor is toast, but would like to be able to test it somehow before i embark on the journey to find a new one. cheers! 27761-15U00
    • I don't know the answer to this, but did you have a look at the parts diagrams on amayama.com and see what they list around it for your car? As an example this should be it on my car. That's how I would check for required clips and things like that. But, I take no responsibility for you ending up with a box full of random OEM hoses, washers and clips after going down that path a few times. This definitely has never happened to me  
    • Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.
    • I think the consensus was that's normal. Sloped road surfaces or something? I remember @silviaz went through this before. It might be one of those things you never notice until you pay attention to it.
    • Im not entirely sure exactly what or where its leaking from, he started to pull the boots to swap to my new tie rods + ends and it just vomited fluid, so he closed em up up, swapped the rod ends to the old rods and let me know so I can figure a solution out, im guessing its all origional as as I passed 103k miles earlier this year im sure its just in need of a full overhual/rebuild anyways.    If i could just yank it off and be good it wouldn't be an issue to ship it out and wait for the turnaround but the guy I work with doesnt really have space to keep my car for a week or two at a time, would rather drop it off and have a replacement ready to drop in
×
×
  • Create New...