Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Gotta do a service on the s13 (hopefully on the weekend) but i don't have a jack or stands or ramps or anything....

Can someone lend me some? There'd be a 6 pack in it for you.

I'm located in Kellyville

Cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236114-need-jackstandsramps-to-do-service/
Share on other sites

I would reccomend finding or buying some proper stands and jack. having seen the number of people who die from putting the car on bricks, or up on a ramp, or up a gutter etc it's not worth the risk.

from a report on jack related deaths.

"There were 27 incidents identified where a vehicle killed a person who was working under it. Of these 27 persons killed, 20 were carrying out home duties (car repairs) and seven were regarded as being at work."

yeh,i always remember to throw a spare wheel under the jacked up car.

and when on the lawn,place a thick piece of wood under the jack so it don't sink into the ground.

Had a neighbour crushed to death because of a sinking jack.

my head almost got crushed but my m8s fiancees excel. was using the stock jack and ground was a lil uneven. had my head under, heard a lil creaking sound, pulled my head out and watched the jack snap sideways and the car drop. :O not good! so make sure its even aswell.... i know its obvious but still...

Hey mate..

What do you have to service you can slide under the car for the oil and dont need to jack her up. Just get a 8L oil drain and yours set. put down some cardboard tho.

Filter you can do ontop, all the rest of the fluids your fine minus transfluids.

If you jack up a car on grass your an absolute idiot. I did a whole exhaust on a stock jack and a set of 9.5 rims just think before you work. Dont let people be hanging around. saying this i advise car stands or at least ramps

Edited by DECIM8

what are you doing mate, just an oil change?

you'll never get a s13 up car ramps so you'll need jack and stands. don't worry about it not being level 99% of the oil ill make it out OK.

where did u get the ramps from?? looking for a low set for my own garage

Hi Mick,

Jo-Ann at Powerplay Imports sells them.

[email protected] or Ph: 98197555

Ever get to notice that you remember numbers/details 'off by heart' when you're trying to chase down orders? LOL

Cheers, Tez

Hey mate..

What do you have to service you can slide under the car for the oil and dont need to jack her up. Just get a 8L oil drain and yours set. put down some cardboard tho.

Filter you can do ontop, all the rest of the fluids your fine minus transfluids.

If you jack up a car on grass your an absolute idiot. I did a whole exhaust on a stock jack and a set of 9.5 rims just think before you work. Dont let people be hanging around. saying this i advise car stands or at least ramps

what are you doing mate, just an oil change?

you'll never get a s13 up car ramps so you'll need jack and stands. don't worry about it not being level 99% of the oil ill make it out OK.

just doin an oil/filter change...and also coolant but that doesn't require it to be jacked up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...